Generous helping of love and pasta served at Vitorio's in Glen Ellyn
From the cozy setting to the attentive service to the ample helpings of wonderful food, Vitorio's Ristorante in downtown Glen Ellyn is a wonderful place for a night out with family and friends.
Small in size — only 11 or 12 tables in the dining area — Vitorio's delivers a large dose of love — Italian grandmother-style — a tradition started well over 20 years ago by founder and owner Joanne Gibellina Spata who drew inspiration from her own Sicilian-born mother. (There's only one thing I would change ... and I'll get to that later.)
We started with two classic Southern Italian selections, mini eggplant parmigiana and calamari. The eggplant was exactly how I want it to be with fresh eggplant lightly fried and covered with tangy tomato sauce and a ton of melted cheese with just the right layer of cooked crust. We went with the sauteed calamari (also offered in traditional fried and nontraditional blackened) and were presented with a huge bowl of fresh squid with ripe cherry tomatoes in a lemony/garlic broth; there was enough here to easily satisfy two or three people.
Other appetizer selections included pomodoro shrimp parmigiana, sauteed portobello mushrooms and baked clams. All courses come with generous helpings of Italian bread, fresh from the legendary Cosa Nostro Bakery in Elmwood Park.
My dining companion chose the chicken Francese for his entree and received two tender, slightly pounded chicken breasts sauteed in a lemon and wine sauce. A very tasty selection that might be even better with a little more garlic.
While torn between several offerings from the pasta lineup — including stuffed gnocchi (a different style each week) and the spaghetti carbonara — I was seduced by the rigatoni that offered both sausage and meatball at no extra cost. I was not disappointed. A huge bowl of pasta smothered in a meat sauce (marinara and vodka sauces also available) with a huge, succulent meatball and five large pieces of spicy sausage. Anyone who knows me knows that I never leave a food on my plate when it comes to Italian food, yet even I couldn't finish it. Satisfied diners going home with left overs — that's exactly what chef/co-owner Joe Spata likes to see.
“We've had people say 'your portions are too big!' So what! Take the rest home; have it for lunch the next day!” Spata effused enthusiastically. “We don't skimp!”
Dessert features classic Italian sweets, including cannoli, tiramisu and spumoni. We went for the decadent triple-chocolate cake, a combination of baked chocolate, chocolate cream and chocolate frosting. The nice-sized portion was just enough to sate two already-full tummies.
While the kitchen normally closes at 10 p.m., with the popular bar area staying open until 1 a.m., Spata adds that he'll whip up a dish for anyone who gets hungry late into the night.
OK — here's my only complaint, and it may get me either excommunicated or force me into Witness Protection: While I love Old Blue Eyes, listening to nothing but Frank Sinatra all night is a bit, well, annoying. How about a little Al Martino, or Dean Martin or Tony Bennet mixed in?!
However, don't let that deter you in any way from rushing over to Vitorio's!
• Restaurant reviews are based on one anonymous visit. The Daily Herald does not publish reviews of restaurants it cannot recommend.
Vitorio's Ristorante
504 Crescent Blvd., Glen Ellyn, (630) 469-4745, <a href="http://www.vitoriosristorante.com">vitoriosristorante.com</a>
<b>Cuisine:</b> Southern Italian with focus on Sicilian dishes
<b>Setting: </b>Cozy and casual
<b>Entrees: </b>$17 to $28; 10% off bill when paying with cash
<b>Hours: </b>4 to 10 p.m. Monday to Saturday (bar open until 1 a.m.); closed Sundays.