Suds & Grapes: Midwestern Craft Beer and Wine-cations
Beer and wine aren't merely the drinks du jour of Sunday football parties and cheese-paired girlfriend get-togethers — the adult beverages can be the basis of fine fall getaway, near enough to be affordable and so low on the travel-hassle scale.
Combine an overnight with educational tours of burgeoning Midwestern craft breweries (that include plenty of sips) and sampling the fate of local grapes at wineries and tasting rooms. Add some of the most innovative food in the country and stunning autumn scenery and you have a mini-vacation that's tasteful on all levels.
California and Washington State may have the most craft breweries and wineries in the nation, but our nearby burgs are breathing some wine and brew breath down the necks of the big boys with sweet Midwestern hospitality tossed into the barrel.
Indiana
Northern Indiana, so close it's practically a suburb of Chicago, can brag about some of the most popular craft breweries in the Midwest as well as a handful of wineries that complement a visit for drinkers of both persuasions — and all within 10 to 30 minutes of each other, making it economical, too. About a half dozen Northern Indiana counties are working on a craft brew, wine and distillery trail, but for now, these destinations will wet your pipes and put a smile on your face. Indiana Dunes Country also offers Lake Michigan beaches to stroll and towering sand dunes to climb so you can work off some of the calories.
First stop has to be the wildly popular Three Floyds Brewing Co., a squat building set in an industrial park in Munster, Indiana. Free tours take place on Saturdays and signing up for them is first-come, first-serve — just check Facebook and the brewpub website about any cancellations and give your name at the door when you arrive.
The place throbs with heavy metal music and general glee with an atmosphere that captures the trope of the craft beer culture — young, outsider and imaginative. You'll know why there's a line to get in after savoring the insanely creative and delicious food chefs Pat Niebling and Scout Hughes turn out from Three Floyds' kitchen.
The menu is a surprising balance of high-end innovation and pub fare. Case in point, every Wednesday the pub receives nearly 200 pounds of fresh cheese curds from Wisconsin, which are dipped in a batter and then ceremoniously sold out in the brew pub.
On the other hand, you can also order an astounding bowl of real ramen noodles lolling in a robust bacon and Parmesan broth that's dotted with a poached egg, seared bacon, pickled radish, scallions and perky mustard seeds. Other standouts include a masa dumpling stuffed with root-beer-braised brisket surrounded by Romanesco sauce and cilantro sour cream and Buffalo popcorn popped in duck fat and sprinkled with blue cheese and Tabasco powder plus toasted celery seeds.
The barbecue beef jerky is a revelation for fans of dried meat and it goes perfectly with a flight of flagship, seasonal and pub-only craft brew like Zombie Dust, Gumball Head and Permanent Funeral. Stop at the kiosk to take home a case. Three Floyds is a must-visit stop in the Hoosier state.
Three Floyds Brewing Co.
9750 Indiana Parkway
Munster, IN 46321
(219) 922 4425
Valparaiso, already imbued with the intellectual excitement, indie shops and eateries and sense of possibility that permeate a college town, is fermenting quite a craft brew scene, too. Call ahead for a free tour at Figure Eight Brewing that offers six year-round beers, 37 seasonals and a constant dozen on tap as well as a delicious root beer.
Have a grilled cheese on bread made from the brewery's own spent grain, but do start with cured bacon on a stick glazed in maple and black pepper. Locals like the brat braised in Figure Eight's own Raven Tor Stout and the signature mac 'n' cheese.
Figure Eight Brewing
150 Washington St., Valparaiso
(219) 477-2000
Other breweries in Valpo include Ironwood (brewery and tasting room at 6 Roosevelt Road) and Four Fathers Brewing (www.fourfathersbrewing.com). Sample more than 150 different mugs of suds from America's best craft brewers at Valpo Brewfest, an annual end-of-September event.
Every two weeks the kitchen at Bulldog Brewing Co. (www.bulldogbrewingco.com) in Whiting concocts a different sausage for the bill of fare to accompany its rotation of 20 beers. Owned by a steelworker and full-time firefighter, the small brewpub is a comfortable stop for a sandwich or pizza in the town known for its annual Pierogi Festival.
Shoreline Brewery (shorelinebrewery.com) in Michigan City pulls the handle on a dozen always on tap, including the World Beer Cup Award winning Beltaine Scottish Ale, and offers live music a couple nights of the week. A 2014 winner of the best burger in LaPorte County for its lamb burger, Shoreline also has roster of surprising menu items like butternut squash bucatini and an appropriately messy and savory plate of poutine.
Crown Brewing (www.crownbrewing.com) in Crown Point offers a brewmaster-led tour on the first Monday of the month for $5 which includes a glass and tastes of five or six on tap. Still bottling by hand, Crown Brewing sits behind the jail from which John Dillinger famously escaped.
Oenophiles must head to Anderson's Vineyard & Winery located on a century-old orchard. Vitner Carnell Mitchell made wine for 25 years as a hobby and in his four years at Anderson managed to scoop up four wins at the Indy International Wine Competition, besting entries from California, France, Germany and Italy.
When you stop in for a free wine tasting (available year round), ask for a sip of Mitchell's Port, a deeply flavored fortified wine that will warm your innards. There are also baked goods, fudge, locally made jams, cheese and honey (from on-site hives) and winemaking supplies to tote home or just grab a glass or bottle to enjoy in the outdoor sculpture garden. The only vineyard in Northwest Indiana, Anderson's offers tours through October.
Anderson's Vineyard & Winery
430 E. U.S. 6, Valparaiso
(219) 464-4936
Another option for wine enthusiasts is Butler Winery in Chesterton (www.butlerwinery.com), a tasting room/store for a Bloomington, Indiana, vineyard/winery. While in Chesterton, consider a stop at Hunter's Brewing (www.huntersbrewing.com), a nanobrewery using the one-barrel system for small-batch boutique brews.
Lodging is plentiful in the three counties (Lake, Porter and LaPorte) and ranges from splendid cottages at Inspiration Wood; B&Bs such as Songbird Prairie and Inn at Aberdeen; and unusual inns like Riley's Railhouse, a treat for train buffs. Indiana Dunes Tourism (www.indianadunes.com) can help you choose a perfect place to rest your eyes and belly.
Milwaukee
Home to the hipsters preferred cold one, Pabst Blue Ribbon, as well as a professional sports team called the Brewers, Milwaukee is the suds capital of the Midwest. Reflect on the city's Public Market, visionary environmental progress, historic neighborhoods, admired chefs, gorgeous art museum and lakefront, and wine drinkers have plenty to swirl about, too.
An upscale, unusual base for your food and beverage getaway, The Iron Horse attracts business and leisure travelers as well as motorcycle enthusiasts with its loft-style rooms and uber masculine décor (www.theironhorsehotel.com). Among the dog-friendly property's packages is a Brew City add-on package. It includes two tickets for a tour of Milwaukee Brewing Co. and a custom Milwaukee Brewing Co. glass and growler with a free filling with the beer of your choice upon hotel departure.
For less costly but nonetheless distinctive digs, consider the Hilton Garden Inn Milwaukee Downtown (www.hiltongardeninnmilwaukeedowntown.com), which is housed in the Loyalty Building circa 1886, a National Historic Landmark. Every room and suite boasts 14-foot ceilings, which you will surely be eyeing after your busy day with the property's Lakefront Brewery Package. It includes an overnight stay in the historic hotel; an arrival gift of two bottles of Lakefront Brewery beer plus beer-inspired treats; shuttle to and from Lakefront Brewery; two tickets for a scheduled Lakefront Brewery tour, which includes a free pint glass per ticket, tour of the Lakefront Brewery facilities, plus four beer pours for your tour; and a breakfast buffet for two at the hotel eatery.
No matter where you're snoozing in Brew City, a bite or a brew at Milwaukee Public Market is a must. Peruse and sip wines from boutique wineries at the Wine Thief, indulge in rich java courtesy of local roaster, Anodyne Coffee, or have them pull the handle on any of 12 craft beers on tap at Nehring's Family Market.
Purchase Wisconsin-made sausage, cheese and chocolates and just try to choose at which kiosk you'll line up: panini, pizza or truffle fries from Nehring's or a bowl of chowder and a lobster roll at St. Paul Fish Company are among the many choices.
For French cuisine in a storied setting overlooking Lake Michigan, check out Bartolotta's Lake Park Bistro (www.lakeparkbistro.com). Executive Chef Adam Siegal won a James Beard Award in 2008 for Best Chef Midwest. Head to Walker's Point, the Wicker Park of Milwaukee, to tour the recently opened Central Standard Craft Distillery which is adjacent to Milwaukee Brewing Company. You can cocktail at the rustic, industrial-looking Central Distillery before or after dinner in the hip 'hood; since it's right next to the brewery, it also serves beer.
Get a tasting flight for $10: vodka is 100 percent rye resulting in an almost sweet flavor; gin is made with a half dozen botanicals like lavender, coriander and juniper berries; and white whiskey is made from oats. Food trucks pull up on the weekends and if you need a shot of caffeine, walk around the corner to Anodyne Coffee.
The fiercely regional Milwaukee Brewing Company (mkebrewing.com) offers a 90-minute tour with a comedic edge, but it will get as technical as tourists desire by asking questions, beer in hand. You get a sample upon check-in and after the tour; expect to taste some of MKE's year-round brews, seasonal offerings and a couple of surprises. Be sure to try one or both from the “Herb In Legend” series, Hop Freak and Ogii, two refreshing collaborations with Milwaukee's own Rishi Tea.
Ten bucks gets you the tour, MKE Brewing pint glass, plenty of beer and a token for more beer. MKE's first beer was crafted in 1997 at a time when Milwaukee was a still a yellow, fizzy beer town and today the brewery is extremely green — go to the website if you're interested in how it smartly reduces the resources required to produce beer.
A few blocks away, wine aficionados may want to pencil in a stop at Indulgence Chocolatiers (www.indulgencechocolatiers.com) for confections paired with wine, craft beer and cheese as you watch chocolatiers work in the kitchen.
When it's time to move the limbs again, meander down Brady Street (bradystreet.org), reminiscent of Old Town Chicago or Haight Ashberry circa 1968 and nine blocks running from Lake Michigan to the Milwaukee River. It's filled with indie shops (a Dart Mart & Juggling Emporium anyone?), cafes and bars and a wonderful family-owned Italian grocer, Glorioso's. Seven flavors of handmade Italian sausage and 700 cheeses are just the beginning of this, yes, glorious haven for food lovers.
Like many craft brewers, the Klisch brothers started home brewing in their kitchens as a hobby. Some 27 years later, Lakefront Brewery's Lakefront Eastside Dark was named the second best lager in the world by The New York Times. Seven bucks will get you a tour (voted No. 4 Top Brewery Tour in America by Trip Advisor), a cup and four tokens to sample beer. Hang out in the gleaming new beer hall to sample more brew, nosh on Friday fish fry, sausage or cheese board, Bavarian beer-hall-style pretzels and Wisconsin favorites like beer cheese soup, house-made curds or an oozing grilled cheese. Read all about it at www.lakefrontbrewery.com.
Wrap up your spirited stay in Milwaukee at G Groppi Food Market (www.ggroppifoodmarket.com) in the Bay View neighborhood. Standing since the late 1800s, Groppi's wine bar has become a lively hangout and known for colossal Panini. Of course, there's also a serious selection of beer, by the bottle or case.
Monroe/New Glarus
You either just enjoyed or completely missed the 100th anniversary of Green County Cheese Days in Monroe, Wisconsin (the next one is in 2016), however, a visit to the farm-rich area is a feast for eaters and drinkers any time of the year.
Begin in Monroe, at the National Historic Cheesemaking Center which also doubles as the Green County Welcome Center. Cheesemakers and guides lead daily tours through Oct. 31. A five-minute drive and you're at the doors of Minhas Brewery (), housed in a building that's been crafting beer since 1845. Brewery tours take place every day, cost $10 and the swag is fab. Along with a 60-minute tour, you get a gift pack including four craft beers, one soda and one logoed tasting glass.
Browse the on-site beer memorabilia museum featuring growlers from all over the planet, advertising artifacts and toy cars, trucks and trains. Walk across the street to the new Minhas Micro Distillery (minhasdistillery.com) where you'll learn how to make Moonshine, what exactly is White Whiskey and how to fashion a Moscow Mule or a James Bond-worthy martini. A tour is $10 and includes spirits sampling, a glass to take home and a bottle of one of Minhas' products. Stroll the Monroe square where you can get a bite to eat and buy cheese at Baumgartner's Cheese Store & Tavern, since 1931 and Wisconsin's oldest cheese store — go ahead, try the Limburger for which the shop is known.
It's an easy 20-minute drive to New Glarus where you can casually self-tour the polished New Glarus Brewing Company (www.newglarusbrewing.com) perched on a hilltop and offering scenic views of the rolling countryside and village. In the tasting room, sample the brewery's popular brands like Spotted Cow and Moon Man as well as seasonal brews. A tasting is $3.50 for three 3-ounce samples or a pint for $6.
Hole up at the tidy Chalet Landhaus Inn (www.chaletlandhaus.com), a Swiss-inspired hotel and restaurant, steps from the quaint town's shops with the Sugar River State Bike Trail just out the back door. A fine finale before you yodel home is one or more authentic specialties like fondue or Raclette, prepared by Swiss born chef Roland Fürst at the New Glarus Hotel Restaurant (www.newglarushotel.com).
Sipping closer to home
• Leave the car at home and take Metra into the city to enjoy the JW Marriott Chicago's Lagunitas Beercation package. It includes in-room welcome selection of Lagunitas craft brews, complimentary transportation via Uber to and from the 300,000-square-foot Brewery and Tap Room, complimentary tour and tasting of Lagunitas Chicago, Windy City Bon Beerage with a signature Lagunitas Mason jar and overnight valet parking just in case you want to drive in. Package rates vary and it's available through Dec. 31.
• Consider a trip to the Beer & Spirits Festival, on Nov. 1 at Grand Geneva Resort & Spa. This year's fest runs from 1 to 5 p.m. Saturday, Nov. 1. Tickets are $40 and available online at <a href="http://www.lakegenevabeerandspirits.com">lakegenevabeerandspirits.com</a>.
• Chicago celeb chefs Stephanie Izard, Graham Elliot, Rick Tramonto and others star at 14th Annual Kohler Food & Wine Experience, Oct. 23-26. Get tickets for the four-day weekend at <a href="http://www.KohlerFoodandWine.com">www.KohlerFoodandWine.com</a> or by calling (800) 344-2838. A variety of Kohler Food & Wine Experience hotel packages are available at The American Club or Inn on Woodlake with exclusive access to signature events and celebrity chefs.