¼ cup mirin
4 teaspoons soy sauce or tamari
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½-inch piece peeled ginger root, grated (2 teaspoons)
4 teaspoons Chinese chili oil
2 (6-ounce) skin-on swordfish steaks, with all traces of bloodline removed, cut into ¾-inch-thick "chops" (see note)
1 green onion, white and light-green parts, chopped
2 teaspoons pickled ginger, chopped
1/3 small serrano pepper, cut crosswise into very thin slices
1 green shiso leaf, plus 2 for garnish
2 large eggs
Sugar, for sprinkling the fish
1 teaspoon canola oil
Combine the mirin, soy sauce and grated ginger in a small bowl. Transfer half of the mixture to a quart-size resealable plastic food storage bag.
Add the chili oil to the bag, then add the swordfish. Seal, pressing out as much air as possible, and massage to coat evenly. Make sure the steaks are flat; refrigerate for a total of 1 hour, turning them over after 30 minutes.
Add the green onion, pickled ginger and serrano pepper to the mirin mixture in the bowl. Roll up the shiso leaf and cut it into thin strips. Stir them into the mixture. Cover and let sit for 1 hour.
Heat the oven to 220 degrees. Lightly beat the eggs with the salt in a medium bowl.
Heat a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. When it is quite hot, grease it with nonstick cooking oil spray. Pour in the egg mixture and swirl the skillet so the mixture evenly coats the bottom, as if you were making a crepe. Use a flexible spatula to push some of the set edges toward the center, turning the skillet so that any uncooked egg mixture fills any empty space. Once the tamago omelet has set, remove from the heat. Use the spatula to dislodge one side of the tamago from one side of the skillet. Use your fingers to quickly lift and flip the tamago. Let it sit in the skillet for 30 seconds, then invert it onto a cutting board.
Remove the steaks from the marinade (discarding the marinade) and blot them dry on paper towels. Sprinkle them lightly on one side with sugar. Heat the canola oil in a medium nonstick, ovenproof saute pan over medium-high heat. Add the fish, sugared sides down; sear for about 3 minutes or until nicely caramelized.
Turn the steaks over. Transfer to the oven; bake 15-20 minutes or until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the center of each steak registers 125 degrees. Let the fish rest for 5 minutes.
Meanwhile, roll up the tamago omelet and cut it crosswise into ½-inch-wide strips.
To serve, form a decorative pile of the tamago strips in the center of each plate. Place a swordfish chop on top of each portion, then spoon the dressing over each chop. Garnish each with a whole shiso leaf. Serve immediately.
Cook's notes: The marinade and dressing can be made a day in advance. Trim the swordfish steaks to look like rib chops by first removing the skin. Use a sharp knife to separate a 1-inch-wide strip of flesh from the eye of the steak, which will be clearly visible, but leave it still attached. Bend back the strip to resemble the rib of a pork chop.
David Hagedorn, Special to The Washington Post