2 navel oranges
½ cup sugar
½ cup bourbon
½ cup finely chopped fresh cilantro leaves
2 pork tenderloins, each ¾ to 1 pound, trimmed of excess fat and silver skin
Extra-virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
1 large handful hickory wood chips, soaked in water for at least 30 minutes
Finely grate the zest from the oranges and lime and set aside. Juice the oranges (you should have cup juice) and the lime (you should have 3 tablespoons juice).
In a medium, heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium-high heat, combine the orange and lime juice and the sugar and bring to a boil, stirring just until the sugar is dissolved. Continue cooking, without stirring, until the mixture is covered with large, glossy bubbles and is reduced to about ½ cup. Remove from the heat. Carefully stir in the bourbon, taking care that it doesn't ignite.
Return the saucepan over medium-high heat and bring to a boil. Cook until syrupy and reduced again to ½ cup, stirring occasionally. Pour into a heatproof container and let cool completely. Stir in the orange and lime zest and the cilantro.
Lightly brush the tenderloins with oil and season evenly with the salt and red pepper flakes.
Prepare a two-zone fire for medium heat (350-450 degrees). Brush the cooking grate clean. Drain and add the wood chips to the charcoal and put the lid on the grill.
When the wood begins to smoke, cook the tenderloins over direct medium heat, with the lid closed as much as possible, until the outsides are seared and golden brown, about 10 minutes, turning occasionally. Then generously brush the tops with some of the sauce, close the lid, and cook for 3 minutes. Turn the pork over and brush with more sauce. Close the lid, and cook until the internal temperature reaches 145 degrees, about 5 minutes more.
Remove from the grill and let rest for 3-5 minutes. Cut the tenderloins crosswise into ½-inch slices and serve with the remaining sauce.
"Weber's Smoke" by Jamie Purviance (Sunset, 2012)