Alex's Washington Gardens maintains tradition

If something isn't broke, why fix it? That's largely the mantra at time-honored Alex's Washington Gardens in Highwood. The eatery has been a fixture in some form since the Great Depression, when Angelina Scornavacco began selling food to railroad workers from the comfort of her yard-turned-beer-garden.

Angelina's sons, Tony and Mondo, later morphed the place into Scornavacco's Washington Gardens, which became a go-to for pizza and homespun Italian meals. The place saw a few incarnations over the years, in more recent days becoming Alex's Washington Gardens. In 2007 Jim Stoecker of Long Grove bought the popular place from Tony and Ellen Scornavacco's son, Alex. The restaurant forges on — to the pleasure of locals — with a large, largely pleasing menu of traditional, from-scratch Scornavacco family recipes, served in abundance.

The setting — all quaint, welcoming and casual — is every bit as approachable as the menu. This is the kind of lively neighborhood gem where you can go for a family celebration, a meal with tots or even a date.

We started our meal with Jim's favorite salad, a familiar, crisp blend of red wine vinaigrette-dressed mozzarella, red onion, sliced tomatoes and basil, with avocado thrown into the mix.

Under serious consideration as a starter was the shrimp de Jonghe, though we saved ourselves the full-fledged entree prep. Instead we opted for the crunchy crostini with goat cheese and earthy wild mushrooms, a satisfying, likable beginner with comforting flavors.

Frog legs, grilled or fried calamari and a hearty appetizer of Italian sausage with white beans and goat cheese are first-course options, too.

Really, though, it's hard to come to a place like this and not get chicken Parmesan. The dish is a perennial crowd pleaser for a reason and this version is no exception. The flat-pounded, breaded breast is baked in slow-simmered marinara and set beneath bubbling parmesan and mozzarella cheeses. The result is a dish that's vibrant and a tad indulgent.

Granted, it could have been swapped out for any number of classics, be it veal Marsala or limone, cheese-stuffed chicken pomodoro or chicken baked in lemony white wine and olive oil. Still, the entree portion of plump shrimp de Jonghe kept calling our names. Full of garlicky goodness, it's something you really shouldn't pass by and we're certainly glad we didn't.

Several pastas are available by the half order, a fact that proves beneficial since portions are large. Choose from classic spaghetti with meat or marinara and spinach ravioli in garlic-butter sauce or baked beneath a blanket of cheese.

Meanwhile, you'll also find a handful of fish preparations, such as salmon bathed in oregano and caper-studded olive oil and lemony, martini-inspired whitefish with Cajun seasonings and dry vermouth.

Sides, on the other hand, range from rustic, Tuscan-style beans to roasted potatoes, spinach sauteed with garlic and oil and pizza bread. Speaking of pizza, here they're a thin-crust mainstay and come with customizable toppings, including sausage, pepperoni, green peppers, onions and anchovies.

Do try to save room for dessert — the made-to-order taffy apple sundae in particular. It's reminiscent of the potluck staple, though it had been kicked up a notch. Served in a goblet with vanilla ice cream, Red Delicious apples, caramel and whipped cream, there's plenty enough for sharing. Then again, the house-made, authentic tiramisu is the real-deal: airy, ultra-creamy and not to be missed. If you're looking for a chocolate fix, though, the Ghirardelli brownie sundae is the way to go. Love carrot cake? Michele Stoecker makes it in house.

The wine list, like the menu, is affordable and efficient. Service, too, is affable, though you may find yourself lingering in wait. Mostly, though, this is a meal that delivers everything you'd expect from a red sauce-Italian, neighborhood joint.

• Restaurant reviews are based on one anonymous visit. The Daily Herald does not review restaurants it cannot recommend.

<b>Alex's Washington Gardens</b>

<b>256 Green Bay Road, Highwood, (847) 432-0309, alexswashingtongardens.com</b>

<b>Cuisine:</b> Red sauce Italian

<b>Setting:</b> Casual, lively pizzeria

<b>Entrees:</b> $12 to $29

<b>Hours:</b> 5 to 9 p.m. Monday to Thursday; 5 to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday