Naperville's Nagoya impressive in its spread
I'm not a huge fan of buffets. The truth is, I usually go in expecting to see overindulgers and mounds of mediocre food. Nagoya, set just off bustling Route 59, doesn't seem much different — at least on the surface.
The tiled, L-shaped dining room and bar is relatively unadorned, with a few Asian-style prints hung on walls, wood seating and a flat-screen TV in the back of the banquet hall-like space. In a long, narrow, adjacent room is the buffet everyone comes for.
As far as all-you-can eat spreads go, this one is impressive. To the left of the room is the hibachi station where you can get most anything under the sun sizzled up. It gives way to the sushi station, where a dizzying number of rolls are yours for the taking. And you know what? I found them to be pretty fresh, from the eel and avocado-packed dragon roll to the shrimp tempura and ubiquitous spicy tuna.
But that might be getting a bit ahead of things. While you'll no doubt be lured in other directions, it's wise to make your way to the prepared salad bar to the other end for something light, like a refreshing rice wine-spiked cucumber and seaweed salad or an odd, if decent-tasting, peanut salad.
From there, it's on to snacks: heavily battered vegetable tempura, airy, batter-encased butter shrimp, pork pot stickers and coin-shaped shrimp dumplings flecked with greens. Look to chicken skewers, too, to fortify. Sauces are found in containers set off from what they correspond with, although you'll also find everything from Sriracha hot sauce to citrusy ponzu at the end near the hibachi station.
The main thrust of the menu, though, is the entrees. Naturally, there is a dizzying array of them to choose from, be it salty yakisoba (Japanese fried noodles), sesame chicken or chicken teriyaki that is mild enough to please young ones. Meanwhile, a wide variety of seafood dishes, including baked, head-on shrimp, appease more advanced palates. In the evening, seafood options expand to include oysters and crab legs as well.
You'd be wise to save room for dessert here. There's a huge spread of fresh-cut fruit, including watermelon and juicy papaya. Moving on, you'll encounter single-serve desserts, including layered cream cakes in strawberry, chocolate or mango-like varieties. That's all well and good, but here the ice cream bar is the draw. Over a dozen scoops in flavors like red bean and green tea as well as familiar vanilla and strawberry varieties are available. Make your choice, and then top it with chocolate or butterscotch sauces, sprinkles or nuts.
Service is efficient, which fits the vibe of the place. And since navigating the restaurant is easy — everything is clearly labeled — the intimidation factor is nil.
It may not be a place where you sit and linger — unless you set out to get your money's worth and then some — but it is a solid, affordable spot, one that is a definite step up in its category and more interesting than much of what surrounds it.
• Reviews are based on one anonymous visit. The Daily Herald does not review restaurants it cannot recommend.
<b>Nagoya</b>
<b>804 S. Route 59, Naperville, (630) 637-8881, nagoyausa.com</b>
<b>Cuisine:</b> Korean and Pan-Asian buffet and sushi bar
<b>Setting:</b> Casual storefront
<b>Price:</b> Weekday lunch $12.99; dinner $19.99 Monday to Thursday; weekend dinner and Sunday $20.99
<b>Hours:</b> 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Sunday through Thursday,11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday through Saturday 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.