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Naperville panel rejects alcohol-infused ice cream concept

A potential franchiser's plan to open a Naperville shop that serves freshly made, alcohol-infused ice cream is in limbo.

The city's liquor commission, voting 6-1 on Thursday, shot down Buzzed Bull Creamery's request to create a new liquor license that would allow the business to add up to 3 ounces of alcohol into its homemade ice cream or milkshakes. The proposal now has to go to the city council, which has final say on policy changes.

Six of eight liquor commissioners initially expressed support last month for the Cincinnati-based concept, which Kentucky resident Chip VonLehman is hoping to bring to the Western suburbs. They directed Senior Assistant City Attorney Jennifer Lutzke to write language for a potential confectionery license, capping it at one available permit for Buzzed Bull.

But Commissioner Paul O'Toole says he now worries that if one business is allowed to inject their sweets with alcohol, every gelato, ice cream and coffee shop in the city will attempt to do the same.

"I think this is a slippery slope," he said.

Commission member Chuck Maher, who cast the lone "yes" vote, said the idea generated favorable responses from several of his friends and neighbors. He pointed to the specialized tanks Buzzed Bull uses to speed-freeze the ice cream using liquid nitrogen and infuse it with alcohol. Other businesses could do the same, he said, if they're willing to invest in that equipment.

"The one thing that I was really appreciative of about this business is that it's kind of a unique concept," Maher said, noting Buzzed Bull likely would contribute to Naperville's reputation as a destination.

VonLehman said the creamery aims to offer a family-friendly experience for kids and adults alike. One or two shots could be added into the ice cream specialties for customers 21 and older, he said, but they couldn't order separate alcoholic beverages.

"It would only enhance the downtown," VonLehman said, "not deter from it."

Community groups that discussed the proposal at their own board levels were divided on the concept, representatives told the liquor commission.

While the Downtown Naperville Alliance was favorable to the idea, the Naperville Restaurant Association thought it would be unfair to other businesses that have been required to open full kitchens and jump through other hoops to get liquor licenses.

Those concerns were echoed by Commissioner Scott Wehrli, who said he doesn't like the idea of crafting a custom license to fit one business. He would prefer Buzzed Bull try to qualify for a tavern license, he said, though Naperville leaders have been restrictive about giving those out.

When it comes to the confectionery license, Wehrli said, "I really think we are opening the door to a place I'm not ready to go when it comes to the service of liquor beyond wine and beer."

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