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Scalloped vs. gratin: And the winner is potatoes au gratin

What goes perfect with breakfast, lunch or dinner? My answer is potatoes, but not just any potatoes, I like mine to be cheesy; the au gratin kind.

Scalloped vs. au gratin: Scalloped potatoes are layered thinly sliced potatoes, salt and pepper, butter, milk or cream, and a little flour to thicken the liquid mixture. That said, I found plenty of recipes claiming to be scalloped also add cheese to the layers, which according to my Food Lover's Companion makes them a gratin, or a dish topped with cheese, or bread crumbs mixed with bits of butter, then heated in the oven or under the broiler until brown and crispy.

To accomplish this there are even special round or oval gratin pans and dishes are oven proof and shallow, which increases the dish's surface area, so there is more crunch per portion. However, you do not need to purchase a special pan to make delicious au gratin potatoes. An ovenproof skillet or plain old shallow baking dish will do. I like to use my cast iron skillet.

There are many different recipes for potatoes au gratin, but they usually all start with the same ingredients; potatoes, salt and pepper, butter and some dairy, usually half and half or heavy cream, and cheese. Now, would also be a good place to note you can “gratin” almost any vegetable by adding cheese and a crunchy crust, perfect for those of you who may not care for potatoes.

The selection of potato is vital as russets or Yukon Golds are the spuds of choice. They have a high starch content and will hold their shape while cooking, which is important to support the other tasty goodies you are adding.

Now it is time to make this recipe your own. What kind of cheese do you like? Any cheese that melts well, and isn't too greasy, works here. I have used everything from parmesan to cheddar and Monterey Jack to Fontina. The cheese you select will largely depend on what other things, if any, you add to your mixture. I have a favorite recipe that combines artichoke hearts and Fontina cheese, and another with caramelized onion and Gruyere. The possibilities are endless and only limited to your imagination, or what you have on hand.

As a young 12-year-old imaginative cook I remember once combining a packaged dehydrated scalloped potato mix with grated cheddar cheese and (true confession) Spam. I always liked ham and cheese and thought it would be a perfect combination. I served it to my parents and sister, who ate it, but appreciate that I use real recipes now.

My current self loves a recipe a friend gave me quite some time ago combining poblano peppers, sweet corn, and Oaxaca or mozzarella cheese with the other usual ingredients. I have made this for my family, as well as for groups of thirty or more, and it always receives rave reviews.

I know what you're thinking; poblano peppers, no way, they are too spicy, but I can assure you this is not the case. I remove both the ribs and seeds before slicing into thin strips and sautéing with sliced onions. The finished dish has never had much heat at all, but instead a delicious subtle poblano pepper flavor. My guests frequently comment on how they were afraid the potatoes might be spicy but were pleased to discover they weren't at all, usually followed by asking for the recipe.

The real secret to this recipe is the corn. I use fresh when available, but have often used frozen sweet corn instead. The recipe calls for one cup, but I have been known to be generous with this ingredient, as I like the sweetness and crunch it adds to an otherwise “soft” dish.

Of course, it wouldn't even be worth mentioning if there weren't cheese and in this case, Oaxaca cheese, but if you can't find it mozzarella will work, too. I find Oaxaca cheese, sometimes called the mozzarella of Mexico, in the Hispanic section of my grocery store's refrigerated section. If you don't see it be sure to ask because it is readily available. Just like mozzarella, four ounces of Oaxaca cheese yields roughly 1 cup of shredded.

By now you are probably getting the picture; thinly sliced potatoes layered with peppers, onions, and cheese, sort of a potato lasagna, topped off with a creamy mixture of half and half that seeps down into the layers creating a velvety sauce. I am hungry just thinking about it.

I have, on occasion, also added a mixture of buttered bread crumbs to the top to add a little crunch, but the dish is excellent without it.

So, whether you need a side dish for your Easter brunch or dinner or something to serve as part of a Cinco de Mayo celebration, think about trying this one. It is full of flavor, but not spicy, and creamy, gooey cheesiness your friends and family will love. Be sure to save a piece close to the edge of the pan for me; the crunchy cheesy edges are my favorite.

• Penny Kazmier, a wife and mother of four from South Barrington, won the 2011 Daily Herald Cook of the Week Challenge.

Poblano, Corn, and Potato Gratin

You can adapt this recipe to use everything from parmesan to cheddar and Monterey Jack to Fontina. The possibilities are endless and only limited to your imagination, or what you have on hand. Courtesy of Penny Kazmier
Courtesy of Penny KazmierYou control how spicy you want when combining poblano peppers, sweet corn, and Oaxaca or mozzarella cheese.
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