The right stuff for veggie fans on T-Day
Thanksgiving brings out the squash-stuffer in me — and in plenty of other cooks who welcome plant-based eaters (or just plain vegetable lovers) to the table. Last year, I filled small pumpkins with biryani. This year, I'm drawn to a more highly constructed (or at least stacked) approach — roasting a butternut squash in two lengthwise halves and then layering multiple filling elements between them.
The result is a beauty. Rather than hiding the stuffing inside, to be revealed only when it's sliced open, this roast can show off most of the colorful things inside — a mixture of black rice, chestnuts, dried fruit and nuts; sauteed mushrooms; glazed red onions; roasted red peppers; and baby spinach. It's a little like Christina Tosi's famous “naked” cakes at Milk Bar, where the sides are left unfrosted.
The technique, from Gaz Oakley's “Vegan Christmas” (Quadrille, 2018), also allows you to make sure the squash and all its fillings are cooked perfectly, and to do as much in advance as you'd like. You prepare them separately before assembling, then briefly roast the whole thing — held together with twine or skewers — just to warm it through for carving and serving.
I promise it will look great on your holiday table, whether it's the centerpiece at a dinner solely for vegans and vegetarians, or alongside a turkey.