Fresh wild salmon is in season, so get it while it's hot

Good-quality farmed salmon and frozen salmon are available year-round, but fresh wild salmon is a seasonal treat — and that season is right now. What better excuse, then, to make salmon the star of Sunday's supper? In this case, we're going to walk it out to the grill, then top it off with a refreshing salsa.

The recipe is almost boringly simple: grilled fish with Greek salad that is chopped down to salsa size. But the angel is in the details.

The fish is briefly brined with salt, garlic, lemon juice and olive oil, a combo that deeply flavors the fish before it lands on the grill. The tomatoes are lightly salted and patted dry before being chopped and added to the salad, a step that concentrates their tomato-y taste. The red onion is soaked in ice water to defang its sharp bite. As for the cheese, if you don't want any, leave it out. Likewise, if you're no fan of chiles, don't put them into the salsa. (The chiles called for here are pepperoncini, a mild, pickled Italian pepper that often graces Greek salads.)

Another good trick is to cook the salmon with its skin on. That helps to keep the fish from falling apart and makes for a pleasingly crispy contrast to the tender flesh. You should cook it that way even if you don't end up eating the skin, which is so easy to pull off afterward.

How can you tell when the fish is done? Stick a sharp knife into it. If the blade goes through with just a little bit of resistance in the thickest part of the flesh, the fish is ready to come off the grill. Let it rest for a few minutes, then present it with pride.