Fixing the floor next to a bathtub
Q. We had a whirlpool tub and surround put in our main bathroom a few years ago. We now have an issue where the shower has leaked onto the floor from the front edge - maybe splash, maybe from cleaning the gaps between the tub and surround. Either way, the caulking was moldy so I tore it out. Then I noticed the actual plywood floor was discolored and coming apart in large splinters. The contractor we hired to put the tub in is a friend, and we were going to hire him to fix the floor. However, he is suggesting we take the tub out and replace the entire floor. I am worried they will crack or break the tub, and I can't afford that.
I am wondering if there is an epoxy or something I can put on the plywood to prevent further damage without having to take the tub out. Do you have any other ideas to fix this issue?
A. If the damage is limited to a small area next to the tub, you can try a two-part epoxy product, which you can buy in paint and hardware stores. You'll have to remove the damaged wood first to get to a sound base.
Once you have repaired the damage by following the directions on the product, you can tool the epoxy to end up with a smooth surface. The floor finish can then be put back.
Q. I don't quite understand my fascination, but your column is one of my favorites. So, I wanted to offer a totally unsolicited tip. In several of your recent columns, you mention that some problem has been "exasperated" by some factor or another. And while the problem itself may be very exasperating, the compounding factors are exacerbating the issue. Exasperate vs. exacerbate. It's an easy slip.
Because your column is meticulous in its lack of grammatical and spelling errors, I thought you might appreciate a little proofreading help.
A. Oops! I did use the wrong verb, and more than once according to your mail! No excuses!
I do know the difference between the two verbs, but used the wrong one carelessly. Thank you for the well-deserved correction and thanks for your kind words. I'll try to be more careful the next time it comes up. Hopefully, lesson learned. Edit, edit and edit again!
Q. A water tube connected to the back of our refrigerator developed a tear, causing water to spray out and leak under the wall behind the refrigerator and to the side of the refrigerator along the kitchen's wood floor. The wood floor looks fine, but has warped in a way that makes it uneven to walk on. I'm afraid of someone tripping on it. Will this correct itself in time as it dries out? If not, do we need to rip out the floor and replace it, or could it be corrected via refinishing? We have not refinished the floor since it was installed in 2010.
A. If the wood floor, which I assume is strip hardwood, has cupped, the water ran under the boards causing the bottom of the boards to swell. This is likely what happens because you mention the floor looks good.
The repair depends on the severity of the cupping. If it is really minor, less than one-sixteenth of an inch, it may be possible to sand the floor and refinish it.
However, it is difficult to advise without seeing the problem. Your best bet is to contact flooring contractors for their advice. I suggest you contact two or three contractors to get different opinions, as some may want to do a more drastic job than needed.
Q. My husband and I live in Tennessee and my sister and brother-in-law suggested we ask you to see if you can solve a problem. We built the house five years ago and periodically through the winter months we get condensation drips on the bottom of the gutter facing north over our front steps. The condensation then drips onto the concrete steps, which causes ice to form on the steps and they become treacherous. The funny thing is this doesn't happen on the garage gutter facing north. We have a one-level home with blown-in insulation in the attic. The whole front of the house has the same amount of shade all day. The gutters are not leaking because the condensation droplets go the entire length of the gutter. There is no rhyme or reason as to when it is going to happen. Could it be something with the insulation in the attic?
The first picture shows the front of the house and the second picture shows the water droplets on the bottom of the gutter. We would appreciate any advice you can give us.
A. Thank you for sending the photos; they are very helpful. The condensation occurs under the gutter at the eaves of a cold porch over your front stoop and I see remnants of snow on the roof. It is unlikely that there is insulation in the roof in the cold section, but if there is, there shouldn't be. But I don't think that it is the reason for the condensation.
The gutter looks quite level without the pitch necessary to discharge the water to the downspout. I can see this by looking at the row of shingles just over the gutter; the space between that row of shingles and the gutter appears to be the same from right to left. Moreover, there are two additional roofs (one on the right and one on the left) that discharge water into that gutter.
So my guess is that snowmelt from the three attics is not draining fully, as it should, and the remaining cold water keeps the gutter colder than the warmer, humid ambient air causing the condensation. Because you have not experienced condensation in other gutters, it sounds as if the other gutters have been properly pitched to their downspouts.
An interesting tip from a reader: "A couple of times I got road tar on my car when driving on newly paved roads. I used WD 40 and it came off immediately and fully."
• Henri de Marne, a former remodeling contractor turned columnist and consultant, is the author of "About the House with Henri de Marne" (Upper Access Publishing). He continues to take questions from readers for this column and his website, www.henridemarne.com. Email questions to aboutthehouse@gmavt.net.