Ditka's adds to lineup with casual but impressive Grill 89 in Westmont
Back in the 1960s, all eyes were on No. 89 when the Chicago Bears took the football field. Tight end Mike Ditka didn't disappoint. Now fans of Ditka's Restaurant Group have a new reason to watch for 89 when they cruise down Ogden Avenue in the Western Suburbs looking for Da Coach's latest play.
Grill 89, the Ditka's Restaurant Group's first casual eatery, opened May 23. Named for Iron Mike's now-retired number, the Westmont location is a less formal version of his eponymous restaurants in Oakbrook Terrace, Arlington Heights and Chicago.
But there's nothing semipro about it.
Located in a strip mall where numerous restaurants have failed to stay in the game, Grill 89's staff seems to be working hard to build up a loyal fan base.
Divided into two rooms, one a sports bar with plenty of flat screens, the other a dining room with an open kitchen, Grill 89 has a modern, industrial décor. The exposed metal ceiling and wood floors don't buffer noise, though, so on a busy night the decibel level can rival the roar of a packed stadium when the home team scores a touchdown. During my midweek lunch, diners occupied only half the tables and booths, but my companions and I still had to huddle to make ourselves heard.
Floor-to-ceiling windows flood the rooms with light, too much if you're facing the glass on a sunny day. We were told management is considering installing shades to soften the glare. Works for players who smear grease paint on their cheekbones.
Start with drinks and you can choose from a menu heavy on local beers (Lombard's Noon Whistle, Geneva's Penrose, Warrenville's Two Brothers, Lemont's Pollyanna, Wauconda's Small Town - Not Your Father's Root Beer to name a few), craft cocktails, whiskey and wines by the glass, bottle or liter.
Early in the game, a few customers complained online of spotty service and long waits for food to come from the kitchen. During our lunch, a little more than three weeks after Grill 89's kickoff, there were no fumbles. Our server, Tony, couldn't have been friendlier or more attentive, and our main course came out just as we were finishing our starters.
We began with dip & dip & dip, a trio comprising white bean hummus, pimento cheese and guacamame made of avocado and mashed edamame. Served with warm tortilla chips, it scored a field goal with us. The coach's pot roast nachos, also served at Ditka's mainline restaurants, will have us coming back for more.
A red smoker in the back corner of the restaurant turns out Grill 89's smokehouse menu items. The West Texas 18 Hour Beef Brisket, made from Linz Heritage Angus beef raised without hormones or antibiotics on Midwest family farms, came with cornbread, two kinds of barbecue sauce and a choice of beans, fresh-cut fries or whipped potatoes. Tender, though a tad dry, the meat had a pleasant smoky flavor.
The burger of the week happened to be the Iron Mike, a regular on the lunch menu at Ditka's restaurants. Topped with a fried egg, cheese, onion, bacon and a secret sauce, it came with a tall order of seasoned fries. Diners counting calories can opt for mixed greens. The grilled chicken wrap was an eye-pleasing mix of tender chicken, avocado, corn relish, bacon, cheese, chipotle mayo, lettuce and tomato wrapped in a pinkish tortilla a little too soft and chewy for my taste.
We couldn't resist sharing the chocolate chip cookie skillet, a cookie baked in a square iron pan and topped with warm chocolate sauce and vanilla ice cream. By the time we drained cups of flavorful Lavazza coffee, the skillet held just a smear of sauce and cream.
As we settled our bill, my dining companion texted an enthusiastic Grill 89 recommendation to her family. Since her family is more than large enough to field its own football team, Ditka's newest venture into the restaurant game could be a sellout.
Thankfully, Grill 89 takes reservations.
<i>Restaurant reviews are based on one anonymous visit. The Daily Herald does not publish reviews of restaurants it cannot recommend.</i>
Grill 89
800 E. Ogden Ave., Westmont, (630) 570-5889,
Cuisine: Barbecue, burgers, wood-grilled meats and salmon; brunch on Saturday and Sunday
Setting: Out building in St. James Crossing strip mall off Route 83; ample parking
Entrees: $9.95-$24.95
Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday, 10 a.m. to 11 p.m. Saturday, 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday