Lake Zurich's Cinnamon Bistro invites you to savor its vibrant vegetarian fare
Nothing about Cinnamon Bistro's location hints at the dining experience that awaits behind its doors.
Tucked into a hidden nook of Lake Zurich's Village Square Shopping Center at Route 22 and Rand Road, this cozy spot is barely visible from the parking lot and easily overlooked. That's a shame, because Cinnamon Bistro's inventive vegetarian cuisine, exquisite presentation and leisurely paced service will make you feel like you're miles away from this bustling Lake County corner.
The food and feel at this restaurant, open since September, were created by owner Renata Pawlicka. Her previous restaurant experience was in her native Poland and Germany, and the European influence shows - mainly in the way the meal unfolds as an evening's entertainment rather than a pit stop between points in a typically harried day.
The menu makes mention of the restaurant's support of the Slow Food movement and policy of preparing everything as it is ordered. That comes with a warning that dishes take time. And they do. We went on a weeknight, yet we wound up waiting about an hour for our appetizer to arrive. We didn't mind, in part because our busy server stopped by frequently to see how we were faring and flipped the appetizer and soup courses to close the gap in the wait. In addition, the decor evoked the relaxed feel of a beloved B & B with an eclectic mix of distressed furniture, homey accessories and quirky finishing touches.
Plus, the food was worth the wait.
Owners pledge ingredients that are 99 percent organic, and the all-vegetarian vegan-friendly selections burst with creativity and color.
Once we'd checked out the wine and cocktail list, we scanned the short list of starters. The chef's variety seemed a natural for sampling the bistro's offerings, and it did not disappoint with its playful, artfully presented mix of tastes and textures. Long cucumber slices wrapped with goat cheese and carrot strips with ricotta and curry were pleasant and worth a try, but they were overshadowed on the beautifully arranged platter by the more vibrant cheese balls rolled in a striking red vegetable powder. Creamy and rich, these little bites packed a lot of flavor in a tiny package. Even better was the beet tartare. It featured delicious bits of the roasted root vegetable, a pleasant crunch from pistachios and a horseradish-laced dressing that delivered a nice kick.
The standing dinner menu is small: three appetizers, a handful of salads and five entrees - all named for colors that reflect the plate but undersell the medley of flavors. On our server's suggestion, we made the “brown” our first choice entree. It was, she explained, a great introduction for anyone new to vegetarian cuisine and one of the restaurant's most popular picks. A large portobello mushroom cap was stuffed with ricotta cheese and herbs and paired with two potato cutlets. The cutlets were crisp on the outside, moist on the inside - a little like hash browns, minus the grease. They disappeared quickly, along with the rich, nicely browned portobello.
The “yellow and brown” - our second pick - felt both comforting and indulgent. Rich polenta provided several forkfuls of cheesy goodness, made even better by a perfectly seasoned medley of mushrooms. Together in the same bite, the polenta and mushrooms elevated a deceptively simple pairing to something that tasted downright decadent.
Other listed entree options were lentils covered with a medley of vegetables, buckwheat cakes with creamy spinach and steamed corn and a vegetable ragu on millet.
Both of our entrees came with a cup of soup and a house salad, an impressive mix of vibrant greens, grape tomatoes and more with a mild, slightly sweet dressing that never overpowered. For soup, I skipped the split pea and opted for the carrot, a thick, creamy blend that proved a bit bland in light of everything that followed. Still, the portion was more than generous and, again, beautifully presented with a drizzle of dill pesto and a lightly crunchy topping of pumpkin seeds and slivered almonds.
A dessert case displayed a few cakes, but our server urged us to go for the mango mousse. Each spoonful brought up a new flavor or texture - tapioca, chia seeds, mango puree - and the result was a creation that was refreshing without being overly sweet.
Our server was friendly and attentive and kept us apprised about the meal's pacing. But make no mistake: This is not the kind of place you go when you want to grab a quick dinner or when you're feeding fidgety kids. And with entrees at $18 to $19, it's pricier than most vegetarian cuisine. Still, Cinnamon Bistro is well-worth seeking out - and savoring.
<i>Restaurant reviews are based on one anonymous visit. The Daily Herald does not publish reviews of restaurants it cannot recommend.</i>
Cinnamon Bistro
751 W. Route 22, Lake Zurich, (224) 662-4138,
Cuisine: Vegetarian, with an embrace of the Slow Food movement
Setting: Cozy, eclectic spot with relaxed, romantic vibe
Entrees: $18-$19
Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday, 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Sunday, closed Monday