McNally's enjoying tasty return to St. Charles
Bars and restaurants come and go. So when a good one returns, it's cause for celebration. That's the case with McNally's Irish Pub in downtown St. Charles, where Irish beers share tap space with local breweries and plates of piping-hot fish and chips outsell burgers.
<b>Motif:</b> The original McNally's opened in 1998 in the space now occupied by The Office. The pub moved down the street to 109 W. Main St. a dozen years later and changed hands in 2014. The new owners ran the spot as McNally's for a year before debuting Valley Lodge Tavern. That bar closed after eight months, and owner Maurice McNally took the pub back in January and reopened this winter, bringing Chef Kevin Gillespie on board to introduce new items alongside traditional Irish favorites.
The two-story pub features lots of rich, dark woods and rustic lighting. The central bar, with its nooks and arches, maintains the iconic pub look. Shelves lined with books and other items provide a homey feel, while a map of Ireland, historic photos and Irish sports memorabilia cover the walls. A patio with plenty of seating should draw crowds on warm days.
<b>Food:</b> Starters include battered cod nuggets, mussels, cheese curds and a Blarney Baked Mac n' Cheese with cheddar sauce, blue cheese, cherrywood bacon, sliced jalapeño and scallions. We went for the warm pretzel bites paired with a mild Kerry Gold cheddar dipping sauce and a rich, flavorful mustard whipped cream cheese.
The top-selling item at McNally's is the fish and chips platter - with good reason. The moist, generous planks of crispy Guiness-battered cod are among the best I've tasted this side of the Atlantic. Other top-sellers are the shepherd's pie - featuring ground Kobe beef, peas, carrots and pearl onions in a Guinness gravy, topped with whipped potatoes - and the traditional Reuben. We bypassed those for McNally's inspired twist on the ubiquitous grilled chicken sandwich. Slices of chicken drew added flavor from wild cherry aioli, caramelized onions and crunchy Granny Smith apples on a walnut raisin bread. The sweet/savory mix balanced out beautifully.
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Liquid consumption: </b>No Irish pub can go without Guinness and Smithwick's, and McNally's does not disappoint. But taps also offer Stella Artois, Blue Moon and a selection of local brews - including DuPage County's Two Brothers and Geneva-based Penrose. Our waitress brought a sample so I could get acquainted with the latter. My husband, meanwhile, went for Braham's Stoker Bloody Mary, a spicy blend of Stoli, bloody mary mix and a splash of Guinness.
<b>Service: </b>We hit McNally's on a night when the bar was hosting a party of local rugby players celebrating a win. The place was packed, yet service never lagged. Our server checked in frequently to ask if we needed anything, as did other members of the staff. In fact, it was refreshing to see servers, managers and more working in tandem to keep the food and beer flowing.
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Crowd: </b>McNally's attracts a mix of ages. On the night we visited, young couples and groups of friends crowded around the bar, while families chatted over dinner at nearby tables.
<b>Music:</b> Lively Irish music played in the background while we ate, with live music scheduled to start later in the night. The pub hosts soloists and duos on Friday, Saturday and the occasional Sunday.
<b>Parking:</b> There is some street parking as well as a nearby free lot.
<b>Overall: </b>McNally's is a lively, friendly spot for dinner and drinks.
McNally's Irish Pub
109 W. Main St., St. Charles, (630) 513-6300,
Hours: 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to midnight Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday