advertisement

Homeowner strikes out with shady, inept contractors

Q. In October and November of 2009, I had my aluminum windows replaced with vinyl windows, the aluminum siding replaced with vinyl and the roof replaced (complete tear-off of old shingles), changing from "standard" shingles with turtle vents to architectural shingles with ridge venting.

Every window in my house now leaks since I had them all replaced. To replace the windows, the installer cut away the old siding to allow room to work. During the process, he explained how very difficult it actually turned out to be as he had ordered new construction windows instead of replacement windows. He built "boxes" or "frames" which protrude out/away from the house, then proceeded to wrap those in colored aluminum to make them more visually appealing.

The first window we noticed leaking was the three-panel sliding back door. Before he was even finished with the installation, there was a heavy rain one night and suddenly we heard this sound like a waterfall. We turned toward the back door to find the waterfall on the inside of the door.

As the months went on, I continued to notice drip marks on the white vinyl door frame.

I called the installer, but the phone did not ring. I physically drove to both address locations I had for him, which were apartments where he did not live. His fax number was no longer existent. He was gone without a trace.

Do I call a window guy? A siding guy? A roof guy? Spend my life savings (more like available credit) hiring all three in an attempt to find the source of the leak and the right fix? Did he forget the Tyvek? Is the tape around the windows upside down? Is the water coming from the roof?

A. The gist of your letter indicates you not only got a very bad job from the original window contractor, but just as bad a job from the two other "experienced" contractors responsible for the siding and the roof.

It sounds to me as if the windows and the sliding door were not properly flashed. They should all have a head flashing tucked under any existing housewrap and taped, as should the window and door flanges.

At this point, the best I can recommend is that you hire a competent general contractor to remove the siding around all the leaky openings and see what needs to be done to weatherproof them. It sounds like a major job.

Q. The cedar siding on portions of my home is attacked at various times during the year by woodpeckers. I read in one of your recent columns that some people have had luck stopping this by hanging strips of "metallic ribbon." Just what is metallic ribbon and where can it be purchased?

A. You can buy Mylar Flash Tape from Amazon, and in some Ace Hardware and Home Depot stores.

Q. I have saved your columns and consulted your book regarding standing seam roofs. As a result, I'm seeking quotes per your recommendations for double-locked with tabs. One response to these specifications met the requirements. Another response was the following: "We don't do double-locked; they can cause problems."

When asked why, this contractor explained they can cause the "oilcan effect," which he said meant ripples, and will result in much more work to repair should a tree fall on the roof. What's your take on this?

I'd like to confirm I've got this right: The clips are what get nailed to the roof and folded into the seam, and the tabs are at the ends. Is that correct? Thank you so much if you can help in this matter, and for your ongoing advice.

A. Oil-canning is far more prone to occur with lighter 26-gauge metal. The seams have little to do with oil-canning.

The clips are secured to the roof and folded into the seams, and termination tabs at the ends of the seams at the eaves are folded to prevent wind penetration.

My recommendation is always to be very selective in the choice of a standing seam roofing contractor.

You should insist on 24-gauge metal (thicker than 26 gauge), double-lock seams and the application of a sealant at all seams. Termination tabs at the bottom of the seams also need sealant before being folded and secured.

Too many roofers will only use 26-gauge metal (a lighter metal that can oilcan in strong winds) and single-lock seams without sealant or termination tabs in order to keep the cost down and be more competitive.

Q. Can you tell me what is this rust-colored stain that I have on my concrete driveway? The home faces north, and this stain is on more than half the driveway. Can you recommend a product that might remove it?

A. The rust stain was most likely caused by a fertilizer that contained iron.

You can buy a concrete rust remover from hardware and big-box stores, building-supply specialty stores or online at The Rust Store (www.theruststore.com).

Q. I am not sure you can answer this, but I hope so. I have an animal that keeps digging under my front porch (not sure what kind of animal). I put down powder and moth balls, but it does not faze them.

They still dig. Are there any other suggestions you would be able to give me? I hate to call Animal Control, pay an enormous price and have them come back.

A. It is probably a groundhog (also known as a woodchuck) or a skunk.

If it is feasible, digging a trench about two feet deep around the perimeter of the porch and burying some galvanized fencing may help. The buried fencing may prevent the animal from digging under the porch.

An alternative is to bury galvanized fencing installed horizontally in a dug out space approximately two feet wide and six inches deep around the porch. When digging downward, the animal may become discouraged after a number of tries and encountering the fencing.

You should be able to find fencing in hardware and garden-supply stores.

Q. We're converting our vacation home screened porch in Galena into a three-season room. The 12-by-14-foot porch is attached to the upper level of the house, is fully roofed and was previously supported opposite the house by 6-square-inch beams, 8 feet high.

There is a 6-foot elevation change from front to rear that caused erosion problems. We had a foundation and concrete floor poured for the under-porch area, which is now completely enclosed, and the erosion has stopped.

The upper level will have Anderson 200 windows installed in 2-by-6-inch studs with 1-inch siding on each wall and ceiling. The floor currently has 2-by-12 joists on 24-inch centers, but additional 2-by-12s will be installed on 12-inch centers, and topped by three-quarter-inch CDX subflooring. Wall, ceiling and between-joist insulation will be added.

The last step is flooring. We're considering using ceramic, vinyl or Congoleum products, but some of the contractors have expressed concern over these in an unheated space. We did not plan to provide HVAC to the room, but are now asking for estimates to install one heat duct but no cold air return. Since this is a vacation home, the heat is usually turned down to 48 degrees when we are away (water is off and drained).

The room gets significant heat gain from the sun, but is cold at night. I'm partial to ceramic but my wife thinks the other products will not be as cold to walk on. One contractor suggested an under-floor heating system, but at $1,000 I don't think it is in the budget. My concern is more over product or installation failure rather than comfort. Have you had any experience with flooring in this environment?

A. There are many vacation houses in cold climates that are not heated in the winter and have had no problems with any of the flooring options you are considering.

Whichever of the materials you are considering, once installed they will not change the temperature of the floor. The feeling of "cold" is the result of walking barefoot on material of various density: The denser the surface is, the more your feet's nerve endings are in contact with it. If you plan on walking with bare feet, you should consider indoor-outdoor carpeting.

Interesting comment from a reader: "Your recent column on water heaters neglected to mention a check valve at the incoming supply.

"We had a system with an incoming check valve, and after using hot water, we would find leakage at the tank. An expansion tank was installed at the tank and the problem went away. With a check (one-way) valve, as water reheats and expands, it will naturally push out the pop-off valve. A purported building code requires an expansion tank when the supply has a check valve in place."

A. Thank you. Good point. This problem only occurs if the water supply is from a town or city. In well-water systems in the country, the pressure tank is the expansion tank.

• Henri de Marne was a remodeling contractor in Washington, D.C., for many years, and is now a consultant. His book, "About the House," is available at www.upperaccess.com. His website is www.henridemarne.com. Email questions to henridemarne@gmavt.net, or mail First Aid for the Ailing House, Universal Uclick, 1130 Walnut St., Kansas City, MO 64106.

© 2016, United Feature Syndicate Inc.

Article Comments
Guidelines: Keep it civil and on topic; no profanity, vulgarity, slurs or personal attacks. People who harass others or joke about tragedies will be blocked. If a comment violates these standards or our terms of service, click the "flag" link in the lower-right corner of the comment box. To find our more, read our FAQ.