Don't be intimidated, this recipe for fresh sausage making is easy
If you've always nursed a yen to make your own sausage, but you don't own a meat grinder and you're dubious about the joys of stuffing ground meat into casings, this recipe for rustic sausage patties is for you.
So what about this ground meat mixture qualifies it as sausage? The answer is threefold: the seasonings, the way the ground meat is mixed, and the high fat content of the mixture. Most hamburger meat contains 15 to 20 percent fat. Ground chuck clocks in at about 30 percent. But when it comes to sausage, most of which is made from pork, the fat averages 30 to 50 percent.
And - big surprise! - that's why we love it so much. The flavor and juiciness are enhanced greatly by all that fat.
Still, there's no reason to get crazy, which is why I've walked a middle line here, aiming for a fat content around 35 percent. Pork shoulder (also known as pork butt or Boston butt) is my cut of choice. It's inexpensive, tasty and rich with fat. But the ratio of meat to fat varies even within a given piece of pork shoulder. Some parts are leaner, some fattier. In order to arrive at just the right ratio, you need to slice off the fat and weigh it, then weigh the meat, too.
Next, it's time to toss in a couple slices of bacon, which is my way of adding smokiness to the sausages without actually having to smoke them.
Given that most folks don't own a meat grinder, we're going to use a food processor to "grind" the meat. First, however, the meat and fat must be frozen. This helps them break up more evenly during processing, and helps prevent them from overheating in the machine. You can take advantage of that freezing time to cook and chill the onion mixture.
When all of the ingredients are combined - the ground meat, fat, onion and seasonings - it's important to mix them well. Kneading makes the finished sausages denser and springier. These qualities are what make a sausage a sausage rather than a burger, which should be loose and crumbly.
I call for the cooking and tasting of a "test pilot," or tiny sample patty, before launching into full production. It's a safe way to decide if the sausage is seasoned to your taste, given that you shouldn't just pinch off and gobble down a piece of raw meat. First, it's just not safe. Second, raw meat requires different seasoning than cooked meat.
The patties can be formed a day ahead and chilled, which will improve their flavor even further. One last caveat: Be careful not to overcook the patties. All they'll need is three minutes per side, plus a few more with the lentils. If you cook them to well done, they'll be dry.
I love the combination of pork and beans, which is why I paired these rustic sausage patties with warm lentils. The lentils and their cooking liquid are poured into the same skillet in which the sausages were grilled. This step deglazes the browned sausage juices on the bottom of the skillet and marries the pork to the lentils. If you want to make this dish more substantial, you might stir some baby spinach or kale into the lentils and let them wilt before adding the sausages. Or throw in some steamed baby carrots. Or both. It's all good.
• Sara Moulton is the host of public television's "Sara's Weeknight Meals." She was executive chef at Gourmet magazine for nearly 25 years and spent a decade hosting several Food Network shows, including "Cooking Live." Her latest cookbook is "Home Cooking 101."