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Call in the pros when a job demands skill and experience

Q. Our early 1900s house has a fieldstone foundation. Over the last several years, both large and small cracks have developed in the mortar, some of which I have filled temporarily with expanding foam to keep out the cold and the critters. I would like to more permanently fill these and, if possible, cover over the foundation from the ground up to smooth it out. 1) Is this something I can do on my own? And 2) What materials would you recommend for this project?

A. If you are handy with a trowel and mortar, you could attempt to do the job yourself, but I would not advise it. It's not a simple job, and for long-lasting results, you may want to hire an experienced mason.

The failing mortar will have to be removed until sound mortar is reached. The composition of the new mortar needs to match what is there now to be compatible, and that determination needs to be done through experience.

However, if there is seasonal movement, it is doubtful that any repair will last unless measures are taken to prevent it. This may require digging a space from the foundation approximately 4 feet out, about 12 to 16 inches deep at the foundation and slanting down to 18 to 24 inches at the outer edge.

That space will need to be raked smooth and be very flat, without any irregularities. Two-inch-thick rigid XPS insulation planks should be laid in the excavated space and covered with the original soil. In the spring, plant grass and maintain it well. This will prevent deep frost penetration and remove pressure on the old stones.

Measures will also need to be taken to make sure the stucco-like coating you wish to end up with will not be cracked or lifted by frost.

An experienced mason will know how to take care of this.

Q. We got a new bathroom almost three years ago and recently found that the shower faucet must have been slowly leaking into a closet on the floor below for some time. The closet walls are moldy, and we had to throw away most of the boxes on the top shelf due to water damage.

In trying to narrow down the problem we found no water leaks when the faucet is on, either running through the tub spout or the shower head. Water does leak when the water hits the tiles above the shower faucet handle.

We pulled off the faucet faceplate to find the installer had cut a large hole in the tiles and in the wallboard. American Standard Installer Hotline seemed to think: 1) that the faceplate foam gasket is the way all faucets are sealed to walls, and 2) the hole the installer made was a bit large.

Attached is a photo looking down at the single-lever shower faucet handle. Does this appear to be a typical installation?

Do you have any advice on how to proceed and how to keep this from happening again?

A. The photo shows a foam gasket, which may not fit tightly enough to keep water out. I have experienced similar situations before.

The simplest and best solution is to first clean the tiles of the previous caulking, which does not look like a thorough, professional job. After that, apply a thick bead of polyurethane caulking to the tiles in the visible space covered by the escutcheon, so that the foam gasket is embedded into it. Put the caulking bead just below the lip of the escutcheon to keep any water out.

Make sure the escutcheon is put back very tightly against the tiles. It should have some way to be fastened tightly.

Q. We just purchased a duplex. Tenants over the years have painted the walls and evidently did not protect the baseboard that has stain on it. What is the most effective product to remove old paint from a baseboard?

A. There are many paint removers on the market. They are classified as either caustic removers, which need to be neutralized in order for new coats to adhere properly, or solvent strippers, which cause the paint to swell and make it easy to scrape it off with a putty knife.

Both kinds present a health risk; use adequate ventilation and preferably use a chemical mask to filter the fumes.

There are more environmentally friendly strippers, such as Citristrip and Peel Away 7, but they may not be as effective.

Well-stocked paint, hardware and big-box stores should carry one or more brands of these products.

The application of a paint remover or stripper may not only remove the objectionable paint, but may damage the stain finish underneath them.

Q. I work for a major industrial supply company and read your column every week, as it helps me in my job. Thank you! Love the column!

My question, however, is residential. Our house flooded a few years ago, and my basement carpet has rust stains from the chairs. Is there anything that will take the rust stains out of carpeting?

We've already replaced the carpet twice, and I'd like to try to salvage the second run of damage. Any suggestions?

I have a carpet cleaner (a Hoover, that takes solvents and cleans/removes with hot water), but that hasn't made much impact on the stains. My husband is working with multiple products to try and release the stains, and some of it is helping, but as you know, rust is tough. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

A. Try pouring an equal-parts mixture of lemon juice and white vinegar, to which a generous amount of salt is added, onto the rust stains. But first try it in an inconspicuous area to make sure it will not damage the carpet. Let it sit overnight.

If that is not successful, try pouring hot water with a little ammonia on the stains. Allow the mixture to sit for a few minutes.

In either case, be sure to blot the wet areas with a clean, white cloth to transfer the loosened rust to the cloth.

Consider fitting rubber or plastic cups under the chair legs or, if it is feasible, placing glass cups under the legs of stationary chairs, to avoid further damage.

Q. What alternative do I have other than a French drain to eliminate or deter water coming into my cellar at the foundation? It does not happen during a short, light rain, but does when it pours for a lengthy time.

A. You may have some grading deficiencies. Short, light rains directed against the foundation may be readily absorbed by the soil, including the backfill, while heavy, lengthy rains overwhelm the ability of the soil to do so.

Carefully look around the entire perimeter of your house for flat or negative slopes. These may include grassy areas, mulched flower beds, patios, walks, driveways and areas under decks that have frequently settled or were never properly backfilled.

Correct any problem by raising the grade to obtain a gentle slope of about 2 inches per horizontal foot, extending as far as possible. But keep in mind that soil must be 6 to 8 inches clear of wood.

Add fill under decks, and reshape masonry or asphalt appendages to direct water away. Also check the proper disposal of roof water either through gutters and downspouts or directly onto the ground. The downspouts should discharge onto splash blocks or extension pipes to move the water away from the foundation. The splash blocks should be on a gentle slope.

If you have no gutters, there should be concrete patio blocks at the roof's drip line, and the blocks should gently slope away as well and be flush with the grade.

If you do not find any of the problems outlined above, the leakage may be due to a fast-rising water table or underground spring during those hard rain events. You may need to install a sump pump to get water out before it reaches the cellar's floor.

Q. We have a lovely stone tiled walk-in shower; it has a pebble-stone floor. Our problem is the caulk line where the walls meet the shower floor. Is there any caulk that will not mold or mildew? We run the exhaust fan and we use Lysol spray on the shower floor. We still get deteriorated caulk with mold and mildew. The shower is 4 years old and we have replaced the caulk once so far. Before we do it again, we'd like to know if there is a better product to use.

A. The existing caulk sounds as if it is one of a silicone product line that does not resist mildew and easily peels off.

Here are a few that guarantee they will not mildew: Sashco Mildew Free Sealant is guaranteed for seven years and will pay for labor and materials to replace it if it fails within that time frame; GE Supreme Silicone Kitchen & Bath; DAP Kwik Seal 3.0 Advanced Caulk With Microban is silicone-based and advertised as mildew-proof; Loctite U-Can Seal white caulk was recommended by a reader who also said that a small amount of mildew developed after awhile, which he easily removed with bleach and water.

Be sure that after you have removed the existing caulking, you wipe the area thoroughly clean with alcohol to remove any remnants of the old caulk to ensure proper adhesion.

• Henri de Marne was a remodeling contractor in Washington, D.C., for many years, and is now a consultant. His book, "About the House," is available at www.upperaccess.com. His website is www.henridemarne.com. Email questions to henridemarne@gmavt.net, or mail First Aid for the Ailing House, Universal Uclick, 1130 Walnut St., Kansas City, MO 64106.

© 2016, United Feature Syndicate Inc.

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