Schaumburg's Punch Bowl Social impresses with food, fun

Dozens of spots in the suburbs offer handcrafted cocktails and chef-driven pub fare. If you're looking for those things with a side of vintage entertainment the list narrows. Punch Bowl Social on American Lane in Schaumburg aims to stake its claim at the top of that list.

Punch Bowl Social is an odd name for a place; it brings to mind grade-school dances my dad used to tell me about. The 10th location of this Denver-based concept opened late last year in that equally odd part of Schaumburg that lies west of Woodfield Mall and south of Golf Road. PBS took over the massive John Barleycorn space that's just down the street from Grillhouse by David Burke and the new Egg Harbor Café and behind Toys R Us.

The first thing you notice upon walking in (once you find the front door that is frustratingly on the opposite side of the building from where you park) is its openness. A mix of tables and booths and a large bar fill the space that, while cavernous, doesn't feel impersonal. I give props to the waitstaff for making us not feel like cattle at the trough. With a friendly smile, our waiter answered our questions and steered us toward highlights on the food and beverage menus.

The direction was appreciated because Punch Bowl Social's menu is as expansive as it is inventive. With a nod to the “social” in its name, the restaurant offers shareable plates and pitchers of, of course, punch. Yet these punches bear no resemblance to the cranberry juice and orange sherbet filled bowls of my dad's past.

We thankfully didn't have to order an eight-serving pitcher to enjoy one of PBS' signature punches as they are all offered in single pours. I couldn't get behind the combo of coconut and fennel seed shrub in the Lord Stanley's Cup, so I went with the sweet vodka, cardamom and watermelon concoction known as “You must bring us … A Shrubbery.” Red wine floats on top of the denser liquids in this delicious quaff. A shrub, by the way, is the term for a vinegary fruit or herb syrup used in cocktails.

The beverage menu holds a fun mix of pure juices, fizzy sodas - you won't go wrong with the jalapeño and cucumber limeade - inventive liquor-based libations and spiked milkshakes that could pull double-duty as dessert.

Bar bites (which despite the name do not have to be consumed at the bar) include home-cut kettle-cooked chips sprinkled with truffled salt and Parmesan and cilantro-sauced wings with buttermilk dipping sauce. Deviled eggs pumped up with bacon jam and mushrooms stuffed with oven-roasted tomatoes and taleggio cheese fall under the shareable plates category. My partner and I jumped at the cauliflower nachos. We kind of expected cauliflower planks to replace the chips, however spiced, roasted and crumbled cauliflower florets replaced the meat. The plate was monotone in appearance but not in taste. The corn chips were far better than any supermarket variety and cloaked with a duo of Mexican cheeses; jalapeño and pickled onion delighted my palate.

We skipped past the Gastro Diner section of the menu with chicken and waffles (said to be a customer fave) and the sweet-tea brined chicken and opted for burgers and sandwiches. The Waldorf burger won my heart. You might think candied walnuts and dried cherries have no place on a patty, but you'd be wrong. Apples, frisee and a smooth blue cheese aioli dressed the two, 4-ounce patties. Instead of serving thick, 8-ounce patties that can be hard to cook to the customers' liking, PBS opts for two smaller patties that came cooked to juicy perfection.

The Cubano with ham and cocoa-dusted pork earned the recommendation of our server, but the Very Serious Grilled Cheese wooed us. Poached pear and quince added sweet notes to the Gruyere and goat cheeses melted between slices of toasty ciabatta. The turkey and white bean chili ordered as a side was less impressive. The potatoes made it too stewish, and the roasted poblanos didn't add enough pizazz.

The dessert menu is small but mighty. The chocolate cake hit the spot without being cloying.

PBS serves breakfast - the likes of corned beef hash, biscuits and gravy and breakfast tacos - until 3 p.m. on weekdays and offers brunch - complete with bloody Marys and mimosas - on Saturdays and Sundays.

Now that I've covered the eats and drinks at PBS, I'll move onto the “social” aspect. Games of all sorts - Ping-Pong and baggo, bowling and Scrabble, Galaga and darts - fill the lower and third floors of PBS. There are even private karaoke rooms if you're musically inclined. Food and drinks are available upstairs and downstairs, too. On a week night there was no wait for any of the games, and I'm told on weekends PBS is family-friendly up until 10 p.m. Seems like a fun place for a swim team outing, a 50th birthday bash or even a rehearsal dinner. If you leave hungry, thirsty or bored, it's all on you.

Restaurant reviews are based on one anonymous visit. The Daily Herald does not publish reviews of restaurants it cannot recommend.

Punch Bowl Social

1100 American Lane, Schaumburg, (224) 836-9080,

punchbowlsocial.com/schaumburg/

Cuisine: Inventive spin on bar bites and beverages

Setting: Well-appointed warehouse

Prices: Starters: $6 to $10; entrees: $12 to $21

Hours: 11 a.m. to 2 a.m. Monday through Friday; 8 a.m. to 2 a.m. Saturday and Sunday