Enza Sicilian Osteria's extensive menu transforms Glen Ellyn space
Enza Sicilian Osteria's opening in late November marks a renaissance for the space in Glen Ellyn that until recently Vitorio's Ristorante had called home for 15 years.
But the new name (interestingly, taken from “rinascenza,” which translates to renaissance or revival) and the shift in ownership also represent a changing of the guard for the premises.
Patrick Gibellina, who assumed the reins as owner, brings to the table experience running the Signature Lounge on the 96th floor of the John Hancock Center in Chicago. As a nephew of Joanne Spata, Gibellina also comes with familial ties to one of the former principals at Vitorio's.
To start, Enza is becoming known for its 15 signature and classic handcrafted cocktails, such as the Rocco Mule and Ravenswood Manhattan. Its well-stocked bar also offers a tidy mix of mostly Italian red and white wines, including an agreeable rustic red Benuara from Cusumano Winery in Sicily.
The restaurant's kitchen is ably headed by chef Marge Saalfeld, who honed her skills in Italy. Besides daily specials, the menu affords diners a wide variety of options.
At a time when many eateries are eliminating bread service, it was refreshing to see that Enza still upholds the tradition. The complimentary Italian bread came with an enjoyable herbed olive oil for dipping.
Popular starters include grilled polenta; a traditional affettati mistii, or mixed plate of cold cuts, imported cheeses and marinated grilled artichoke hearts; and caponata: fried Sicilian eggplant, celery, zucchini and tomatoes.
Dinner for two began with carciofi e sedano bianco - a shared salad of greens mixed with artichoke hearts, white celery, apples and toasted walnuts all dressed in a tasty pecorino apple vinaigrette.
Don't be surprised if you find yourself vacillating over the choice of a pasta course. It can be a tough call, given that all seven options are homemade and each has something special to recommend it.
Among the tempting possibilities were gnocchi - miniature potato dumplings with cauliflower and rapini in a limoncello cream sauce; pappardelle Bolognese - wide, flat noodles with veal, pork and beef; and linguine Neri - a squid ink pasta with mussels, clams, shrimp, calamari and San Marzano tomatoes.
I can personally vouch for the orecchiette barese, tiny ear-shaped pasta served with flavorful fennel sausage, broccoli rabe and cherry tomatoes.
Our third course, a memorable vitello saltimbocca, was made with three sauteed veal medallions topped with prosciutto, mozzarella and fresh sage. This dish, too, was shared, and while service was otherwise unflagging, it would have been so much easier had the kitchen split each of the courses and saved us the trouble.
After such a hearty repast, dessert may be the last thing on your mind. As it turns out, Enza relies on outside third-party support for its sweet treats.
Sadly, the blah tiramisu didn't live up to expectations. It was all cream with only a thin sponge base layer.
<i>Restaurant reviews are based on one anonymous visit. The Daily Herald does not publish reviews of restaurants it cannot recommend.</i>
Enza Sicilian Osteria
504 Crescent Blvd., Glen Ellyn, (630) 793-5433,
Cuisine: Sicilian
Setting: A warm touch of Italy in an intimate 50-seat dining room
Prices: Antipasti: $8 to $14; entrees: $15 to $26
Hours: 4 to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday; 4 p.m. to midnight Friday and Saturday
Parking: Street