Geneva's Haché makes farm-to-table French fare approachable
Food-wise, Haché Moderne Brasserie is off to a good start. Everything we consumed from executive chef Andrew Hoelscher's open kitchen during a recent visit was top-notch.
Another plus: The French-influenced fine-dining establishment in downtown Geneva also comes with a smashing decor that's both elegant and unstuffy. Check out the ornate chandeliers, handsome glassed-in wine cellar and eclectic mirror collection displayed on a rear wall.
But there are a few telltale (albeit minor) signs that the 130-seat restaurant, which debuted in early August, is still in shakeout mode.
For example, the menu jumped the gun offering a four-course prix fixe dinner for $39. That option, it turned out, was not yet available, according to our server. He also glossed over a glaring spelling gaff on the dessert menu and the absence of fresh-ground pepper (“the grinder was broken”).
The venue, which occupies remodeled space where Urban Grille once resided, is owned by Irina Haydon and Peter K. Youngren, who also operate Paris Bistro in Naperville. Bar stools and two communal tables populate a cozy lounge area, while the main dining room has plenty of tables and chairs plus some comfortable banquette seating. In addition, Haché can accommodate diners on a small seasonal patio fronting the building, weather-permitting.
In keeping with its farm-to-table philosophy, Haché sources as much of its produce and meat as possible from local purveyors. Hoelscher's kitchen aims to turn out a product that's an amalgam of classic and modern with a distinctive French feel. Entrees on the still-evolving menu range in price from $22 to $36.
To start, the farmer's salad, split into two more-than-ample servings, lived up to its name. It featured a tasty mélange of red and green lettuce mingled with fresh sweet corn, beets, tomatoes, pears, goat cheese and a honey champagne vinaigrette.
Among other starters were chicken liver pate, Buffalo frog legs, bouillabaisse, a variety of creative flatbreads (beef tartar, duck prosciutto) and salads (burrata, duck confit, shrimp lettuce wraps).
As for the entrees, I give high marks to the pan-seared corvina, a sweet, flaky fish with a mild smoky flavor. It was perfectly grilled and artfully plated with Forbidden (black) rice pilaf and a microgreens garnish.
Ditto for my dining companion's toothsome duck confit, which came with similar accompaniments.
Meanwhile, other entree options include the popular classic steak frites as well as coq au vin, champagne-braised beef short rib, Dijon- and mint-crusted lamb rack and apple brandy bone-in pork chop. Hankering for a burger? It, too, is available in Angus beef or bison.
For an after-dinner treat, look no further than the exquisite cocoa bean chocolate-mousse-layered chocolate cake, if it's on the menu. It was presented with cherry sauce and a small bowl of crème Chantilly. A couple of other possibilities included Haché goat cheese cheesecake (shareable), sweet corn creme brulee and a gelato trio (pistachio, salty caramel and vanilla).
The full-service bar at Haché dispenses specialty cocktails, craft beers and international wines by the glass or bottle. For an annual fee, customers can become members of the Haché VIP wine club and receive discounts on designated entrees (Monday through Thursday); credit, based on points accumulated, toward future dine-in or carryout purchases; and half off wines of the month (pickup only).
• Restaurant reviews are based on one anonymous visit. The Daily Herald does not publish reviews of restaurants it cannot recommend.
Haché Moderne Brasserie
524 N. State St., Geneva, (630) 402-0288, <a href="http://hachegeneva.com/">hachegeneva.com</a>
<b>Cuisine:</b> French-influenced
<b>Setting:</b> Sophisticated, inviting decor
<b>Prices:</b> Appetizers: $7-$14; entrees: $24-$56; desserts: $8-$9
<b>Hours:</b> 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Thursday; 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday; 9 a.m. to 10 p.m. Saturday; 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday
<b>Reservations:</b> Recommended
<b>Parking:</b> Street or nearby lots