Replacing old shower pan is not the end of world

Q. We have an acrylic-type shower floor that is about 30 years old. Since we have a well and septic system, the floor gets a lot of abuse from iron in the water, and it needs a lot of cleaning with products like Iron Out. Consequently, the floor is wearing thin from the cleaning.

The question I have is: Can the shower floor be resurfaced? I would think that would be more cost-effective than replacement, if it's possible. We would appreciate any advice.

A. The only way I can think of to resurface the shower pan yourself is to prepare it well and paint it with an epoxy paint, following the directions on the container regarding preparation and paint application.

You may want to contact a firm that does porcelain refinishing; perhaps they will agree to tackle such a small job. Readers have reported to me that some of these firms, such as Bath Fitters, will only consider refinishing jobs that include tubs and surrounds.

The ease of replacing the wearing-out pan depends on the wall finish. If the walls are tiled, the bottom row of tiles may be removed and a new row put back after a new pan has been installed. The new row does not need to match; it can be made into a special strip.

Q. I read your column and like your tips. I am going to build up the ground around my porch, but there is a window well on one side. How do I keep water from going into it?

A. If your window well consists of a corrugated metal half-circle or a rectangular one, it can be raised by purchasing a matching section (they come in several widths) and placing it over the existing well.

Soil can be raised against the new section to obtain the desired slope.

If you only need to raise the existing well by 4 inches or less, another attractive option is to set paver bricks around the outside of the well in a soldier course.

You'll need to set the bricks a minimum of 4 inches into the grade and tamp the soil well so the bricks will not be pushed over the well's top edge.

Be sure to use paver bricks, made to resist contact with earth; regular bricks would soon deteriorate.

Q. I'm having a problem with mildew on a vinyl deck and vinyl siding. I got it off the deck once with a pressure washer and another time with Mold Armor. Mold Armor works well. It got it off the deck, but the sprayer doesn't reach the siding and gutters, and the mildew is coming back on the deck after only a few weeks.

I bought vinyl because I didn't want to have to be constantly dealing with a wood deck. Is anything available that keeps the mold off for a while? Would Mold Armor or anything else work well in a pressure washer? Does ammonia help? Would just using a powerful pressure washer more often without a cleaning agent do as well?

A. You must live in a damp environment to have such a big problem, in which case there may not be a permanent solution.

More frequent pressure-washing would certainly help. Adding bleach to the power-washer solution is also worth considering. Scrubbing with Mold Armor has worked for you, so do it again.

Another way to clean mildew effectively is to scrub the deck with a mixture of Oxy-Boost and Deck & Patio Cleaner, both sold by Ecogeeks (www.ecogeeks.com). This is the best general cleaning solution I know of. Painters who have used it following my recommendation have said the same thing.

You can also clean the vinyl siding and gutters with the same solution, but you should apply it with a soft brush in order to avoid damaging them. A rotating car-washing brush attached to a garden hose works very well.

I can't tell you if these treatments will last longer than what you have experienced; you may have a difficult situation.

Reader tips: "In regard to the person who had footprints on their engineered dark wood floors, we had the same problem. Ours stemmed from overuse of Murphy Oil Soap. We were told to clean the floor with either rubbing alcohol or mineral spirits. We used the rubbing alcohol and it worked like a charm - no more footprints.

"Thereafter, we use only vinegar and water and only occasionally spot clean with the rubbing alcohol. Honestly, it sounded strange to me too, but it really worked well. Always test a spot, though. Good luck."

A. Bona is also highly recommended by the flooring industry. We have used it for years with excellent results.

• "I read your reply to a question concerning algae stains on a roof. Though I agree with the majority of what you stated in the reply, I disagree with the approach to roof cleaning.

"The large majority of roofs that are 15 years old should be cleaned when you consider the normal life span of a roof. Since most roofs now are dimensional shingles, they have a longer life than three-tab shingles and seldom need to be torn off and thrown away due to algae. I have cleaned three-tab shingles. To the untrained eye, they might have looked destined for the landfill. Any roof that has seven-plus years of life left does not need to be discarded.

"As to the cleaning process, those of us who use the soft-wash method do not use high pressure, and we clean roofs as recommended by roof manufacturers. When cleaning with low pressure there is never any damage since we do not use a pressure-washer.

"As to zinc and copper - they seem to work only if strips are 3 to 6 feet apart. They're expensive and an eyesore."

A. Thank you for your helpful comments about the way you clean roofs. Indeed, power-washers should not be used on shingled roofs, as they damage the surface, dislodging the mineral granules that protect against the UV rays of the sun.

I have not seen any difference in the longevity of dimensional shingles over three-tabs. The longevity of these roofs is affected by: 1) The manufacturing process; and 2) The installation of the shingles.

In the U.S. alone, hundred of thousands of shingles have failed, and are still failing, long before the stated manufacturers' warranties because of manufacturing defects.

Not only have I personally had to replace shingles warranted for 25 years on our roof after 14 and 15 years, respectively, but I have also worked with a number of clients over the years in their legal battles with manufacturers that refused to honor their warranties.

I have also received numerous emails and letters from readers who have suffered the same fate.

Fifteen-year-old shingles should be closely evaluated by an experienced roofer, engineer or home inspector before a homeowner spends money on cleaning the roof. The shingles may be deemed to be near the end of their life expectancy.

Cleaning of a roof by the homeowner is a lot less expensive than professional cleaning, and it may make sense if the owners are bothered by the looks and the roof is nearing the end of its useful life, regardless of its stated life.

It is important to note that algae do not affect the life of the shingles; it is only a question of aesthetics.

In my experience, copper and zinc strips applied just below the ridge, and only there, are very effective in keeping roofs free of algae. If applied on a stained roof, it may take a long time for the cleaning process to take place because it requires water to release the ions that do the cleaning. But if the strips are installed on a new or clean roof, they will prevent the growth of algae in the first place. I have seen this to be the case in the state of Washington, noted for its damp climate.

Q. I have fiber-cast columns on my front porch. The paint was peeling (first painted in 2006) and I sanded all the areas down with an orbital sander. I sanded down to the bare fiber surface (perhaps too smooth?) and then primed with Zinsser and painted with Benjamin Moore exterior latex.

Nine months later the paint peeled again, and I am sanding down the peeled areas (see pictures) to paint yet again. I added vents to both the top and bottom, although these pillars never get more than a spray of water when it rains. I want to avoid this a third time and am seeking your advice.

Is there a special primer or paint I need to use? Could I have sanded the surface too smooth so that the paint did not adhere? Thank you for any advice you can provide.

A. I am not sure that ventilation is helpful with fiber-cast columns, as, contrary to wood, they should be impervious to moisture migration from inside the columns. But I may be wrong.

And since you primed the sanded surfaces with a Zinsser primer, which I assume is either B-I-N or Bulls Eye 1-2-3, you shouldn't have such peeling problems down to the bare columns themselves.

Did only the topcoat fail, or did the primer also peel? The photos you sent do not make this clear.

Zinsser's primers stick to glazed, shiny and smooth surfaces, such as laminates and ceramic tiles, etc. So I am inclined to think that the paint failure is of the topcoat only.

In that case, did you wait too long to apply the finish coat, giving pollutants time to collect on the primer? And which exterior Benjamin Moore latex did you use?

• Henri de Marne was a remodeling contractor in Washington, D.C., for many years, and is now a consultant. His book, "About the House," is available at www.upperaccess.com. His website is www.henridemarne.com. Email questions to henridemarne@gmavt.net, or mail First Aid for the Ailing House, Universal Uclick, 1130 Walnut St., Kansas City, MO 64106.

© 2015, United Feature Syndicate Inc.