O'Hare's aeroponic garden adds fresh touch to airport food
Climb the stairs to the upper level of the rotunda at O'Hare International Airport's Terminal 3, and an unexpected oasis beckons.
Twenty-six towers of veggies and herbs rise from the concrete amid the soothing sound of bubbling water and the scent of oregano and basil.
Beside the sensory experience, O'Hare's aeroponic garden provides a constant source of fresh produce for airport restaurants and catering services.
“Where else in the city are you going to get fresh herbs all year round at your doorstep?” asked James Klewin, executive chef with HMS Host, a Chicago Department of Aviation contractor.
At Wicker Park Seafood and Sushi in Terminal 2, Chef Susumu Shibata artfully blends cilantro from the garden with his killer Spanish Dynamite, a yellowtail, tuna and crab roll.
Aeroponically grown chives infuse the flavor of fish roe and crab in Shibata's Spider Roll creation.
“I like the fresh vegetables very much,” said Shibata, a native of Japan who lives in Hoffman Estates.
The CDA and HMS installed the garden in 2011 to offer an “earth-friendly” experience for travelers.
Aeroponic gardening starts by sowing seeds in cubes of volcanic rock fiber. The sprouts are transferred to hundreds of planting spots in the towers.
Artificial light and regular irrigation with nutrient-enhanced water give the veggies the kick they need for a continual growing season.
“Water, minerals and nutrients ... it's the ultimate environment for growing,” said city contractor Brad Maher, food and beverage director for HMS Host.
“People take pictures all day long. It's very tranquil. They get here and they get away ... they feel that they're not in an airport.”
Proving his point during a recent tour was Texan Eric Walker, a business traveler, who snapped shots for his son Ryan, a plant sciences major at Cornell University.
“This is fantastic,” Walker said. “It's a great educational opportunity as you pass by.”
What's cooking at the garden now?
Cherry tomatoes. Arugula. Sage. Thyme. Serrano peppers. Oregano. Leaf lettuce. Basil. Cilantro. Dill. Edible flowers. Mint.
“In two days we had this much growth,” Maher said, pointing proudly at a flourishing arugula tower.
“Here's some Swiss chard ... look at the system on these roots.”
In the last four years, there have been a few growing pains.
For some reason, rosemary won't grow. Some attempts at crossbreeding species didn't take off.
And the lack of bees was a stumper until inspiration in the form of an electric toothbrush that vibrates the plants was tried and — ta-da! — pollination.
Maher stressed that the garden doesn't feed the entire airport, which goes through “truckloads” of produce a day.
But it does add grace notes, such as the aeroponic basil Wolfgang Puck Cafe cooks use to accent a Margherita pizza oozing with fresh mozzarella and tomatoes.
Or the garden-grown peppers that put the cha-cha into salsas at Tortas Frontera.
Maher considers it a victory in his battle to convert airport food haters.
“People say, 'oh, airport food,'” said Maher. “If you've got time, sit down and eat ... if you don't like it, I'll buy it.”