Apricot jam
3 pounds apricots, pitted and quartered (about 4 cups)
3 cups sugar
Juice of 1 large lemon
1 Granny Smith or green apple
6 sprigs lemon verbena (optional)
¼ cup (2 ounces) elderflower syrup or St-Germain brand elderflower liqueur
½ teaspoon unsalted butter
Stir together apricots, sugar and lemon juice in a nonreactive bowl. Grate the unpeeled apple on the large-hole side of a box grater, discarding the core. Add the lemon verbena, if using; stir well, cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours and up to 2 days.
Place a colander over a heavy, 5-quart nonreactive pot. Strain the macerated fruit, capturing the syrup in the pot. Transfer the colander to a bowl to continue to capture the syrup. Clip a candy thermometer to the pot and, over high heat, bring the syrup to 220 degrees.
Add the strained fruit and any accumulated syrup to the pot; cook over high heat for 20 to 30 minutes, stirring constantly. The mixture will foam up, meaning the moisture content is evaporating.
Once the foam is almost gone, discard the lemon verbena as needed; add the elderflower syrup or liqueur, if using, and return the mixture to a full boil. Add butter, stirring until the jam is foam-free.
Turn off the heat and check the set. If it is too loose, return the jam to the stove and continue cooking at a strong boil, removing it from the heat and checking the set every 2 or 3 minutes; keep in mind that the jam will set up further as it cools.
When ready, ladle the jam into the clean jars, leaving a ½-inch head space. Run a plastic knife around the inside of the jar to remove any air bubbles. (If the jam is very thick, be especially diligent.) Place the clean lid and tighten the ring just until secure.
Process in a boiling water bath (pot) for 10 minutes, starting the timing from the moment the water returns to a boil; see cook's note. Remove the jars from the water bath, setting them upright on a folded towel. Let the jars cool naturally for several hours before testing the seal by removing the ring and lifting the jar by the lid. If the seal does not hold, refrigerate the jam and consume it within 1 month.
Sealed and kept in a cool, dark spot, the jam is shelf-stable for 1 year. Its color might darken over time, but the flavor will remain.
Variations: For peach jam, blanch and peel the peaches, chop them into small pieces and stir in the sugar and lemon quickly, to retain the color as the fruit macerates.
For cherry jam, the most familiar taste comes from using tart, or pie, cherries, but sweet cherries will work. Pit and halve the cherries and add two apples. Cherries have no natural pectin and are a tricky fruit to set. Don't get discouraged if you get a loose set; spoon runny cherry jam over chocolate ice cream and call yourself a Black Forest genius.
Cook's note: Water-bath canning safely seals high-acid, low-pH foods in jars. The time for processing in the water bath is calculated based on the size of the jar and the consistency and density of the food. For safety's sake, do not alter the jar size, ingredients, ratios or processing time in any canning recipe. If moved to change any of those factors, simply put the prepared food in the refrigerator and eat it within a week.
Makes 4, eight-ounce jars
When you use early-season apricots to make this spread, it becomes thick and smooth; the tender skins melt away. Larger, late-season varieties tend to have tougher skins that hang on to create a chunkier jam.
To make this vegan or dairy-free, omit the butter.
You'll need a candy thermometer, clean jars, lids and new rings. For peach and cherry variations, see below.
Make ahead: The fruit needs to macerate in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours and up to 2 days. The jam can be stored in a cool, dark spot for up to 1 year.
Nutrition | Per 2-tablespoon serving: 100 calories, 0 g protein, 25 g carbohydrates, 0 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 0 mg sodium, 1 g dietary fiber, 24 g sugar
Cathy Barrow, the author of "Mrs. Wheelbarrow's Practical Pantry: Recipes and Techniques for Year-Round Preserving" (W.W. Norton, 2014)