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Mixed Berry Crisp

For the topping

1 cup flour

1 cup rolled oats (not quick-cooking)

¼ cup packed light brown sugar

2 tablespoons granulated sugar

¾ teaspoon fine sea salt

½ teaspoon ground cardamom, ginger, cinnamon or freshly grated nutmeg (optional)

8 tablespoons (1 stick) very cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

For the fruit

1½ pints (about 1 pound) fresh blueberries

½ pint (about 5 ounces) fresh raspberries

½ pint (about 5 ounces) fresh blackberries

¼ to ½ cup granulated sugar (see note)

Pinch fine sea salt

Finely grated zest of 1 lemon or lime (optional)

1½ to 2 teaspoons cornstarch (see note)

For the topping: Combine the flour, oats, brown and granulated sugars, the salt and spice, if using, in a large bowl. Mix briefly with your hands just to incorporate. Add the cold butter and toss until it is coated with the dry ingredients, then use your fingertips to rub, mash and press everything together to create moist crumbs. Sprinkle with the vanilla extract, then mix and press again. When you squeeze a handful of the topping together and it holds its shape, it is properly mixed. Pinch the topping into bits and morsels, cover the bowl and refrigerate for at least 1 hour (and up to 2 days). If you'd prefer a topping that's a mix of soft and crunchy, preheat the oven to 300 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone liner. Scoop out 1¼ cups of the chilled topping and spread it on the baking sheet. Bake (middle rack) for 20 to 25 minutes, stirring a couple of times, until it is golden brown and crisp. Let it cool while you prepare the filling. The cooled crumbs can be covered and stored at room temperature for up to 2 days.

For the fruit: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone liner (to catch any drips). Have a 9-inch pie plate at hand (see note).

Gently stir together the berries, ¼ cup of the granulated sugar, the salt and the citrus zest, if using, in a large bowl. Let the fruit macerate for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, then taste to see whether you'd like to add the remaining ¼ cup of sugar; if so, add it 1 tablespoon at a time, wait a couple of minutes, stir the fruit, taste and see whether you'd like more. Stir in the cornstarch; let the fruit sit for 2 minutes.

Place the pie plate on the lined baking sheet. Give the filling a final stir and spoon it and any juices that have accumulated into the pie plate. If you've pre-baked part of the topping, toss it together lightly with the unbaked portion. Use your hands to scatter the topping over the fruit, pressing it into the fruit gently.

Bake the crisp (middle rack) for 45 minutes to an hour or until the fruit is bubbling up around the topping and the topping is golden brown. Transfer the baking sheet to a cooling rack and let the crisp rest until it is cool enough to eat or until it reaches room temperature.

6 servings

Nutrition | Per serving (with 1/4 cup sugar in the fruit): 410 calories, 5 g protein, 62 g carbohydrates, 17 g fat, 10 g saturated fat, 40 mg cholesterol, 310 mg sodium, 6 g dietary fiber, 30 g sugar

Cook's notes: If you use 2 teaspoons of cornstarch in the filling, it will be juicy but not very runny. For a more free-flowing syrup, use 1½ teaspoons of cornstarch. The sugar amount has a wide range, but then berries do, too, so this has to be a matter of taste and tasting.

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