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Shakou's contemporary Japanese cuisine wows

Armed with a creative Asian fusion menu, Shakou has managed to spice up the already-lively restaurant scene in St. Charles since its mid-April debut.

The spacious two-story establishment — a study in black, white and purple — is modeled on a similar thriving venue opened in early 2013 in Libertyville by three principal owners: Ed Hartigan, Adam Garvanian and Aleks Dupor.

Shakou, whose name translates as “social life,” presents itself as a spot where friends, families and business associates can gather and enjoy one another's company over lunch or dinner.

The restaurant has two full bars serving wine, sake and specialty cocktails such as a cherry-based Snow Cosmo and Blueberry Lemon Drop martini. Regional craft beers, as well as major domestic brands and Japanese imports such as Kirin, Sapporo and Asahi also are stocked.

Executive chef Sang Choi's contemporary cuisine has sufficient breadth to wow the most devoted sushi fans as well as diners who prefer to tuck into chicken teriyaki, firecracker shrimp or Tokyo steak.

While there are many hot and cold appetizers, a good one to start with is seven spicy ahi. This shareable, easy-to-like dish features a base of butter-crusted sushi rice that's topped with seasoned tuna that carries a little kick, plus jalapeño, citrus mayonnaise and a slightly smoky tobiko (fish roe).

Among other appetizers were soft-shell crab, calamari tempura and orange duck, oysters on the half shell and sunomono, a cold salad featuring marinated cucumber and seaweed with squid, octopus, shrimp and surf clams.

Sushi is available by the piece and via the restaurant's 20 signature maki rolls.

Recommended by our waiter, two popular signature maki rolls — black widow ($20) and hirame crab ($19) — exemplified the chef's culinary artistry. The former was made with black rice that came with lightly battered freshwater eel and avocado — topped with a light tempura crunch, sauteed scallops, tobiko and unagi, a classic finishing sauce that gives foods an attractive sheen and a rich, sweet-savory flavor. The black widow proved no match for mere chopsticks; you might wish to cut its eight pieces into smaller bite-size portions with a knife.

The latter roll, brought to the table in nine pieces, starred batter-fried soft-shell crab, cucumber and asparagus, topped with fresh fluke, a tempura crunch, tobiko, green onion and tangy ponzu soy sauce.

Choosing a favorite from these two palate-pleasers was too close to call.

As noted, Shakou's menu also has an extensive non-sushi side that includes tilapia, braised short ribs, salmon teriyaki, Chilean sea bass and two Korean dishes: beef bul go gi and bi bim bap (vegetables and greens topped with ground barbecue beef and a sunny-side up egg). Three udon noodle dishes also are available.

Looking for something sweet to cap dinner? My tablemate and I rose to the challenge and devoured the made-in-house chocolate truffle: a sphere of chocolate gelato and caramelized hazelnuts dusted with cocoa powder. Nested at its center was a treat within a treat: zabalone cream.

Among other options were the exotic bamba: mango, passion fruit and raspberry sorbetto covered with white chocolate; the pyramid: chocolate mousse with a molten caramel center; chocolate lava cake; and green tea and ginger ice cream served with fruit.

Be forewarned that management has yet to address the high volume at which its recorded background music is played, making conversation difficult at times.

Restaurant reviews are based on one anonymous visit. The Daily Herald does not publish reviews of restaurants it cannot recommend.

  The black widow - black rice, lightly battered freshwater eel and avocado topped with tempura crunch, sautéed scallops, tobiko and unagi sauce - is another fine starter at Shakou in St. Charles. Laura Stoecker/lstoecker@dailyherald.com
  Shakou's sweet ginger soy braised short rib comes with sautéed vegetables and rice. Laura Stoecker/lstoecker@dailyherald.com
  The sunomono (cold salad) appetizer at Shakou is comprised of squid, octopus, shrimp, surf clam, marinated cucumber and daikon radish marinated in sunomono sauce. Laura Stoecker/lstoecker@dailyherald.com
  Bi bim bap - soy bean sprouts, mushrooms, zucchini, carrots and greens topped with ground barbecue beef and a sunny-side up egg served in a hot stone bowl of rice - is one of two Korean dishes on the menu at Shakou. Laura Stoecker/lstoecker@dailyherald.com
  Have a seat at the sushi bar at Shakou in St. Charles. Laura Stoecker/lstoecker@dailyherald.com
  Black, white and purple dominate Shakou's modern space. Laura Stoecker/lstoecker@dailyherald.com
  The two person sushi boat appetizer includes the chef's choice of six nigiri, 10 pieces of sashimi, one basic maki and one signature maki. Laura Stoecker/lstoecker@dailyherald.com
  The sushi boat appetizer can be made for two or four to share at Shakou in St. Charles. Laura Stoecker/lstoecker@dailyherald.com
  Hidden in the middle of Shakou's chocolate truffle dessert is zabalone cream, which is surrounded by chocolate gelato and caramelized hazelnuts. Laura Stoecker/lstoecker@dailyherald.com
  Shakou has a private dining area perfect for a large party. Laura Stoecker/lstoecker@dailyherald.com
  Shakou's black widow signature maki is a palate-pleaser. Laura Stoecker/lstoecker@dailyherald.com
  Shakou has a variety of sake on offer at the St. Charles restaurant. Laura Stoecker/lstoecker@dailyherald.com

Shakou

312 W. Main St., St. Charles, (630) 444-0850, <a href="http://shakousushi.com/st-charles">shakousushi.com/st-charles</a>

<b>Cuisine:</b> Contemporary Japanese

<b>Setting:</b> Modern open space

<b>Prices:</b> Appetizers: $7 to $11; signature maki rolls: $12 to $20; steak/seafood entrees: $17 to $32

<b>Hours:</b> 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Monday through Wednesday; 11 a.m. to midnight Thursday; 11 a.m. to 1 a.m. Friday; 4 p.m. to 1 a.m. Saturday; and 4 to 10 p.m. Sunday

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