Pasta With Morels, Leeks and Oven-Roasted Tomatoes

1 tablespoon kosher salt

1 ounce dried morels (may substitute 8 ounces fresh morels; see note)

1 pound small dried penne pasta

¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 pint cherry tomatoes, each cut in half

1 large leek, white and light-green parts, thinly sliced and rinsed well (about 1½ cups)

1 medium zucchini, cut into 1-inch chunks

1 tablespoon minced fresh oregano (may substitute 1 teaspoon dried)

½ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

Scant 1 teaspoon fine sea salt

1-2 cloves garlic, minced

Pecorino Romano cheese, grated or shaved, for serving

Heat the oven to 450 degrees. Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat. Add the kosher salt. Place the dried morels in a fine-mesh strainer; submerge them in the pot just long enough to rehydrate them, then cut them crosswise into ¼-inch slices. Transfer to a bowl, along with a few tablespoons of the water.

Add the pasta to the still-boiling water and cook to al dente according to the package directions. Drain and return to the pot (off the heat), reserving ¼ cup of the cooking water.

Meanwhile, line a rimmed baking sheet with aluminum foil, then pour in the ¼ cup of oil. Add the rehydrated morels (reserving any remaining soaking water), the tomatoes, leek, zucchini, oregano and crushed red pepper flakes. Use your hands to toss the ingredients until well coated. Sprinkle with the sea salt, then spread the pieces in a single layer. Roast for about 15 minutes or until parts of the vegetables are caramelized.

Stir the minced garlic (to taste) into the vegetables on the baking sheet, along with the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil. Scrape the mixture into the pot of just-cooked pasta, then add the reserved mushroom soaking water. Place over medium-low heat; cook just until warmed through and the pasta has absorbed juices from the vegetables. If the mixture seems dry, add some or all of the reserved cooking water. Serve with plenty of cheese to sprinkle over each portion.

Serves six to eight.

Cook's note: Clean fresh morel mushrooms by plunging them into cold water, squeezing them gently and drying them on a towel.

Nutrition values per serving (based on 8): 340 calories, 9 g protein, 50 g carbohydrates, 11 g fat (2 g saturated), 0 cholesterol, 280 mg sodium, 2 g fiber, 4 g sugar.

Adapted from "Shroom: Mind-Bendingly Good Recipes for Cultivated and Wild Mushrooms," by Becky Selengut (Andrews McMeel, 2014)