Creative menu, inviting atmosphere at Nobel House

Nobel House has been making waves on Geneva's main drag with its inspired food choices and eclectic beer list.

The bustling bar and grill, a modest-sized place seating at most about 60 patrons, opened in May 2014. It's latest addition to a group of eateries owned by Dave Cilio and Jason Levin, who also operate four other dining establishments in Chicago.

Nobel House takes its name from Swedish chemist Alfred Nobel who established the Nobel Prize to recognize excellence by overachievers in a variety of fields from economics to literature.

Diners will find such surprises on executive chef Marshall McCarty's creative menu as an adult mac-and-cheese entree served with lobster; house-smoked meats and a vegetarian “cauliflower steak.” The night I visited a market chalkboard featured two fresh oysters from both the West and East Coasts, homemade flatbread and cheese and charcuterie options.

Craft beer connoisseurs will find a respectable selection, including 30 on tap and some 70 local and national brands available by the bottle. Local brands, including output from Penrose Brewery in Geneva and Chicago-based Half Acre Brewing Co. and Revolution Brewing, plus other regional niche market brews are on hand. New Belgium Ranger, a hoppy, amber India Pale Ale from New Belgium Brewing in Colorado was a nice way to start my visit.

Despite some trappings typical of a sports bar (i.e., the presence of several muted overhead TVs tuned to athletic events and an expansive bar), Nobel House comes across as an inviting gathering place for diners of all stripes. It draws a mix of singles, couples and families with toddlers. Reservations aren't taken, and the place starts getting busy around 5:30 p.m., especially on weekends.

A tasty starter that can easily be shared is the roasted garlic. Served in a tiny covered cast-iron casserole, the sweet garlic is prepared with artichokes, sun dried tomatoes and goat cheese. The flavors go well together on accompanying crostini.

Another popular appetizer stars smoked, seeded jalapenos stuffed with cream cheese, sharp cheddar and red onion and served with fresh lime, pico de gallo and creme fraiche.

For my entree, the smokehouse meat plate with hickory-smoked brisket was spot on. A generous serving of the thinly sliced moist, tender barbecue came with two dipping sauces, one vinegary and the other subtly sweet. The meat came with a choice of two sides and I went with homemade beans baked flecked with bits of pork belly and a fresh-as-could-be coleslaw. A slice of jalapeno-cheddar cornbread completed the artful dish.

My dining partner fared well with a beef tenderloin sandwich known as The Steakhouse. The beef was piled on a pretzel hoagie and topped with mushrooms, boursin cheese, crispy shallots and a bearnaise sauce. Definitely not finger food. Definitely delicious.

More than a dozen sandwiches also were available including lobster rolls, a crab cake club, a handful of specialty burgers and Reuben's Sister Rachel, which is made with slow-smoked turkey pastrami, baby Swiss cheese and sauerkraut.

Creme brulee was the only dessert on offer, and it was a good, classic version — the custard smooth and creamy and the sugar topping perfectly crackly.

Servers were on the ball and knowledgeable in responding to questions about the food and drink menus.

• Restaurant reviews are based on one anonymous visit. The Daily Herald does not publish reviews of restaurants it cannot recommend.

Nobel House

305 W. State St., Geneva, (630) 402-0452, <a href="http://nobelhousegeneva.com/">http://nobelhouse.com</a>

<b>Cuisine:</b> Smoked meats, specialty sandwiches and more

<b>Setting:</b> Casual bar and grill

<b>Entrees:</b> $9-$18

<b>Hours:</b> 11 a.m. to 12 a.m. Sunday; 11 a.m. to 1 a.m. Monday through Wednesday; 11 a.m. to 2 a.m. Thursday through Saturday