Modern space, ambitious menu draw diners to new Palatine eatery
I hope the weather was the reason the dining room at Grove Kitchen was not particularly hopping on a recent snowy evening. Because I wouldn't want anyone to pass up a perfectly pleasant meal at this new Palatine eatery.
Under partners Tom Coutretsis and Lance Lundberg, Grove Kitchen opened in late fall at Dundee and Quentin roads across the street from Deer Grove Forest Preserve (hence the name). The building sat vacant for years before the two gutted the space and renovated the tired '80s-styled family restaurant. The sign proclaims it a “neighborhood bistro,” but I found the interior too upscale in my definition of bistro. Yes, the place is comfortable and the high ceiling with exposed black duct work on trend, but I'm not sure the bank of eggshell leather booths that separates the front dining room from the kitchen reflects the casualness of a bistro. Striking? Yes. Bistro? Not so much.
Also new to the space is a bar with full liquor service (including a handful of craft beers and a modest by-the-glass wine offering) and, thankfully, only one television.
My family settled into one of the high-backed booths and quickly agreed the loaded fries would be part of our dinner plan. This shareable appetizer seemed a cross between potato skins and nachos with warm cheese and scallions draping every thin (but not fast-food-thin) potato. Equally enjoyable were the onion straws, thin sliced rings dredged in a light breading and fried. Yet these weren't greasy or packed into a brick; they're almost airy. Feisty feta dip with homemade pita and the sausage and mushroom flatbread are on deck for our next visit.
Chef Chuck Burton's menu is quite ambitious. Besides the 10 appetizers (ooh, I almost forgot to mention truffle chips), there are a half dozen salads (kale and cranberries among them), two homemade soups, more than a dozen burgers and sandwiches, seven entrees and a knock-your-socks-off macaroni and cheese. Dubbed not-your-mother's mac 'n cheese, the dish is a creamy blend of Swiss, cheddar and smoked Gouda cheeses topped with crisp slices of andouille sausage that seemed to get better with every bite. The sausage is an optional, but highly recommended, upgrade. Bacon also can be added for an additional charge.
The broccoli cheddar soup had a very nice consistency — thick without being gloppy — with a flavor that matched.
From the sandwich section, we went with our server's suggestion: the Georgia Reuben. Slices of roasted turkey stand in for corned beef and are layered with Swiss cheese, bourbon-spiked Thousand Island dressing and mild cabbage slaw between marbled rye. I really enjoyed this sandwich and especially like that it arrived warm without the bread being either too crunchy or too soggy and greasy.
There are many inventive sandwiches on the menu, including a seared ahi tuna and wasabi aioli wrap, a veggie panini and Philly cheesesteak that ranks as a customer favorite.
From the “larger fare” section of the menu we passed over the rigatoni Bolognese, miso-glazed halibut and whiskey pork chop and tried the chicken francese. The lemon sauce that accompanied this dish was bright enough to warm up the cold night. The chicken breasts were meaty and trim and battered lightly with egg and parmesan. The sauce also perked up the side of broccolini.
For dessert there are only two options. I give Grove House credit for focusing on the savory side and heading off site for the desserts. The turtle cheesecake was a nice way to end the meal.
Service was pleasant, not overly attentive, and when we did need something our server was easy to flag down. I've heard from friends that breakfast (like the dream cakes and chocolate waffles) are as good, maybe even better, than dinner. That's a groove my family can get into.
• Restaurant reviews are based on one anonymous visit. The Daily Herald does not publish reviews of restaurants it cannot recommend.
Grove Kitchen
795 W. Dundee Road, Palatine, (847) 705-4910, <a href="http://www.grove-kitchen.com/">grove-kitchen.com</a>
<b>Cuisine:</b> American classics and updated favorites
<b>Setting:</b> Contemporary, family-friendly bistro
<b>Entrees:</b> $14 to $18
<b>Hours:</b> 7 a.m. to 8 p.m. Sunday, 7 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 7 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday