What's in a name? MacDonnells holding their own in California wine country
In a field that includes Drouhin, Torres, Martini and Antinori, MacDonnell might not be your next choice on a list of wine family surnames,
It's true, the MacDonnells of Round Pond Estate in California's Napa Valley have been at it only 30 years compared to the six centuries of Italy's Antinori family. But in our modern world, being in the right place at the right time, with working capital and a dream, can make up for generations of experience and a wine-centric motherland.
When family scion Bob MacDonnell graduated from Pennsylvania State University, an aptitude test pegged him for a farmer. "Not me," he said and turned toward a career in finance.
In 1978, Bob and wife, Jan, purchased a vineyard on Pritchard Hill overlooking Napa Valley, not for wine production but family camping. In 1982, when a corporate landowner divested vineyards supplying historic Beaulieu and Inglenook wineries, the MacDonnells purchased 25 acres and set down roots in Rutherford - now considered one of the world's finest Cabernet regions, rivaling the Grand Cru estates of France's Bordeaux.
"All Dad's friends in finance said 'Don't do it,'" reports son Miles MacDonnell, Round Pond's current CEO. "'Napa is a bad investment.'"
The return-on-investment the MacDonnells were after, however had more to do with lifestyle than capital. "We were farm-to-table before it was cool," laughs Miles.
Today Miles and sister Ryan manage Round Pond Estate, encompassing 362 vineyard acres and - in the tradition of Old World wine estates - 2,200 olive trees.
"We made olive oil for friends and family," say Miles. "Vinegar wasn't far behind."
In a recent tasting, this palate found Round Pond olive oils (including award-winning blood orange- and Meyer lemon-flavored oils), vinegars and citrus syrups vibrant and uniquely expressive ingredients for the finest recipes. To purchase, visit the Shop at roundpond.com.
Unlike many Old World estates, wine lovers receive an open invitation to share the Napa Valley experience, with tours and tastings at Round Pond's winery (including a "Hands on Harvest" stint at the crush pad), the olive mill (one of two in the region), biodynamic garden and private dining room.
But grape growing and wine making are the MacDonnells true passions. New projects entail red wines of 100 percent Cabernet Sauvignon (in contrast to blends based on the traditions of Bordeaux) and a new Oakville vineyard for Bob. When asked the location of this "secret garden," Miles responds "Do you know where Dominus is?" 'Nuff said.
At present, Round Pond Estate wines available in the suburbs and Chicago include Kith and Kin (see Ross' Choice) and
Rosato di Nebbiolo: Nebbiolo is one of the world's finest grapes and base of Barbaresco, Italy's "Queen of Wines." While planting is rare in the U.S., Miles laughs, "Dad loves all things Italian, so we planted Nebbiolo." This Rose is firm with complexities of citrus, melon and white pepper, a worthy complement to curried eggs, charcuterie, fried pickles and other aigre-doux (sweet and sour) flavors served by my new favorite wine-destination Perennial Virant, 1800 N. Lincoln Ave., Chicago. (Available at the Round Pond website, $24)
"Rutherford" Cabernet Sauvignon: With 10 vintages of acclaim, the 2012 (arriving soon in Chicago) is dense and plummy with expansive mid-palate accented by mountain herbs and long, plush finish, comprised of a Bordeaux-style blend of 86 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 9 percent Petit Verdot and 5 percent Malbec. The closest comparison is 2007 (available to private tastings only), powerful, complex and vibrant. The 2010 (still found at select shops) is compact, expanding on the palate with dried herb, currant, tobacco leaf and firm finish, echoing fine Bordeaux. At about $60, both releases reflect the finesse and complexity of America's finest vineyards, while priced lower than more established neighbors.
And if the aptitude for farming holds true, the MacDonnells may be the newest bridge of Celt to Cab, along with other great families - Clarke (Chateau Clarke), Boyd (Boyd-Cantenac), Burke (Pichon-Lalande) and - in a bit of vinous blarney - the O'Briens of Chateau Haut-Brion.
• Write to Advanced Sommelier and Certified Wine Educator Mary Ross at food@dailyherald.com.
Ross' choice
"Kith & Kin" Cabernet Sauvignon
Round Pond Estate
Napa Valley, Calif.
2012
• Suggested retai and availability: About $30 at wine and spirits shops and boutique wine shops (distributed by Heritage Wine Cellars, Niles)
A plush, elegant and spicy red, with ripe berry flavors accented by toasty oak and vanilla, dense body but soft finish. In the tradition of fine wine estates, the MacDonnells first produced "Kith & Kin" exclusively for their "friends and family." Now you can share this value from Napa Valley with yours. Enjoy it with grilled meats, poultry and the richest veggies as the leaves fall and with full-flavored roasts and stews as dining moves indoors.