A few weeks ago I stumbled upon a Hispanic bakery that changed my understanding of what a delicious pudding could be.
When I think pudding, I think mostly of rice- or egg-based recipes made with milk. Rich and sweet, creamy and smooth, these puddings ooze comfort. But this bakery offered something entirely different.
Stacked in one of the shop's refrigerated cases were small, plastic deli containers of something that resembled white butter sprinkled with cinnamon. It looked solid, far more dense than the puddings I grew up with. When I asked, the baker explained that they were tembleque and she had made them just that morning.
I was clueless at the time, but it turns out tembleque is a Puerto Rican pudding made from coconut milk and cornstarch. And when I got my container to the car and dug in, I realized I had been missing something incredible. The pudding was sweet without being cloying, and thick without being chewy.
I also realized that the clean, yet rich flavors of this simple pudding made it a perfect finish to an Easter dinner. So of course I had to learn how to make it myself. I in no way pretend that this is a traditional recipe. But it is inspired by what I tasted that day. And it is delicious.
• J.M. Hirsch is the food editor for The Associated Press. He blogs at LunchBoxBlues.com and tweets @JM--Hirsch. Email him at firstname.lastname@example.org