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Cantilevered floor leaves reader hearing squeaks

Q. My house was constructed using cantilever floor support so beams and posts were minimized. The floors in our three bedrooms above the garage use this system to eliminate a post that would go down the middle of the garage. Seems like a good idea, until you hear all the squeaks in the bedrooms. When we moved in 20 years ago and the floor was exposed, I power-screwed dozens of wood screws into the joists to stop the squeaks. All the squeaks are back and worse than ever. I want to sell our house in the next couple of years without squeaks. There is a drywalled ceiling in the garage covering the joists. What should I do?

A. It seems as if a drying process has taken place over the years, causing separation between the plywood subfloor and the joists. Hopefully that is the case, as other possibilities may be more serious. Try getting rid of the squeaks by using Squeeeeek No More screws; they are perfect for the job. They can secure any floor (except ceramic or quarry tile) to the floor joists, even through carpeting.

I assume that you know how to locate the floor joists so you can screw into them, which is essential. If you don't, you can buy a device like a stud finder that works on floors or write again, and I'll try to explain how to find them the hard way. You may be able to find these screws at Ace Hardware, Lowe's or Menards stores, or you can order them directly from O'Berry Enterprises Inc., 5306 Business Parkway, Suite 110, Ringwood, IL 60072 (www.123itsdone.com or (800) 459-8428). At the website, you'll find videos explaining how to proceed.

O'Berry Enterprises also makes Counter-Snap screws, used for hardwood floors and linoleum only. Both of these screws will leave a small countersunk hole once their top is broken off. You can then putty the hole with a crayon of the right shade, which you can get in hardware or building-supply stores.

Q. I am just starting to look for wood flooring. My condo is on a cement slab, which means I have to have engineered wood or laminate. It seems the only good thing about engineered wood is that, when you sell, you can say you have hardwood flooring. Some tell me that engineered-wood scratches and dents can be refinished once. Some tell me that laminate does not scratch and is easy to care for. To be perfectly honest, I don't see the difference. Every time I talk to someone, I get a different answer. Thank you for any help you can provide.

A. Laminate floors are resistant to damage, but if damage occurs, you are out of luck. If you have a dog, it is more resistant to scratching than any wood flooring is. Wood laminates, such as Pergo, are popular, but cannot be refinished if they're damaged, as the laminate is either thin paper or only photographed on a wood base with a melamine polymer finish. By contrast, engineered flooring is made of thin, real wood, adhered to a wood core. They come in two types: a floating floor laid over a foam pad or individual pieces glued or nailed to the subfloor. They can be refinished to a certain extent — more than once if done carefully — just as regular wood-strip flooring can. There are a number of engineered floors on the market. Your best bet is to go to a flooring store and take a look at what they have, and compare with laminate floors.

Q. I need advice on how to insulate my over-the-stove microwave. It leaks cold air next to the wall where it is attached, and the inside is cold when we open it. The microwave is not on an outside wall. The fan goes up within interior walls to the attic and then perhaps to the outside. I can feel the cold air along the wall as well as when I open the microwave; it is definitely cold inside the microwave. The stove is right below the microwave, and the fan serves to keep air clean.

A. You should make sure the fan is vented to the outside. There should be either a visible wall or roof jack. If it simply terminates in the attic, it's wrong for two reasons: It dumps grease-laden air into the attic, where it can become a fire hazard, and it sends warm, moist air that can cause condensation and the development of mold on the roof sheathing and rafters. It may also be the source of the cold air, as it is the perfect avenue for it to drop down from the attic, especially if the duct is not equipped with a damper to control this process.

The fan's duct should be kept as close to the attic's floor joists and should terminate through a gable wall with a jack that has an effective flap to stop wind from letting cold air in. Its sides and top should be surrounded with insulation. If there is access from the attic to the stud space where the duct is, investigate the possibility of pouring loose-fill insulation in it. But make sure that this space is properly sealed at the bottom so insulation will not spill into the room.

Q. We have a ceramic-tile floor in our kitchen and powder room that is 17 years old. About one year ago, we had someone come in and do some repairs. There was a leak by the toilet, and he removed the toilet and the tiles and put in a new under flooring then put the tiles back and re-grouted. He also removed grout in areas where it had come out. The tile has again cracked by the toilet, and all the grout is coming up! Can we place a new floor over the tile? I'm thinking a wide-plank hardwood floor.

A. Whoever did the repair must not have done a good job if tiles broke. Grout failure so soon after repair would also indicate that it was not applied properly. The only wood floor you can safely install over ceramic tiles is a floating engineered floor, but it means that the toilet will have to be raised and doors may have to be cut. It will also reduce the toe space under the kitchen cabinets and the vanity, which may cause a problem. You can also have a floating laminate floor installed over the ceramic tiles. Because it is thinner than either engineered or regular wood, it will cause fewer problems.

The safest course of action is to remove the ceramic tiles and install either a regular wood floor or an engineered floor. Be aware wide-plank flooring is more prone to cupping than regular-size strip flooring. Engineered flooring can be had in wide boards and is more stable than regular board flooring. In any case, you should have someone competent check the present situation to make sure the repair at the toilet is sound.

Q. I read your article stating that you were not “a fan of attic fans.” I have a power fan with temperature and humidity controls. If I shut it off and do not use it anymore (because of the dangers you mentioned), should I leave it as is? Or do I need to cover it? I'm not in need of a roof just yet, so I don't want to remove it.

A: There is no need to remove or cover the fan. Just shut off the switch, which I assume was installed to control power to it. It will still serve as a venting outlet. Wait until you need a new roof to remove it.

Do you have soffit and ridge vents or soffit and gable vents? When you replace the roof, consider having an externally baffled ridge vent, such as ShingleVent II, installed. If you have gable vents, they should be sealed at that time, too. Soffit and ridge venting is the most effective way to ventilate an attic, summer and winter.

Q. Because I do not see any professionals addressing the issue of the “cold-water sandwich,” I thought I would ask you. About a year ago, I installed a 7.2 gallon per minute tankless water heater. After a year, I am tired of almost always having to wait for this sandwich to come and go. This is especially annoying during frequent hand washing while cooking. We'll get hot water coming out and then a cold shot followed by hot water, and once we have hot water, it is inexhaustible. I don't see any savings in gas at all and believe we waste more water waiting for it to warm up.

I would like your thoughts on installing a six-gallon electric water heater after the tankless output, which would have its thermostat set slightly lower than the 120-degree output of the tankless. This is the smallest tank I can find with ¾-inch fittings in and out. It may even work well as a mixing tank without any heat applied.

A. Tankless water heaters are popular in Europe because they are usually energy savers when installed close to the point of most frequent use — the kitchen. Europeans' homes are generally smaller and more compact, so they work well there. They can work as well here if the houses are designed to have all the plumbing clustered or if they are installed close to the kitchen where the demand for frequent short use is greatest. But there is a way around your problem.

It will negate the purported benefits of tankless water heating: energy savings, which in cases similar to yours are absent. Instead of having the complicated system you propose, consider the Laing Act-909 Tankless Pump. It is made specifically for tankless water heaters; it uses the cold-water line to recirculate hot water, just as the Laing Autocirc does with a regular storage water heater. To some extent, installing instant hot water to a tankless water heater is defeating its purpose, because to provide hot water at every faucet when you turn the faucets on requires the heater to come on even when no hot water is needed. Still, it's an improvement over what you have. An experienced licensed plumbing contractor familiar with these circulating pumps is the person to call.

Ÿ Henri de Marne was a remodeling contractor in Washington, D.C., for many years, and is now a consultant. Write to him in care of the Daily Herald, P.O. Box 280, Arlington Heights, IL 60006, or via e-mail at henridemarne@gmavt.net.

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