Black-Eyed Peas With Oranges and Chipotle

1 pound dried black-eyed peas, picked over and rinsed (may substitute 6 cups canned, no-salt-added black-eyed peas)

1½ teaspoons kosher salt, plus more as needed

4 blood oranges or 3 medium navel or Cara Cara oranges

1 or 2 canned chipotle peppers in adobo, plus 1 tablespoon of the adobo sauce, or more as needed

1 tablespoon rice vinegar (seasoned or unseasoned)

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

2/3 cup sunflower, canola or another neutrally flavored vegetable oil

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, or more as needed

½ cup chopped red onion

½ cup lightly packed cilantro (leaves and tender stems), plus more for garnish

Bring the black-eyed peas to a boil in a large pot of water over high heat. Reduce the heat until the liquid is gently bubbling; cook until they are tender but not mushy, 30 minutes to 1 hour, depending on their age. (It's hard to know how old dried legumes are, and the older they are, the longer they take to cook.) Add 1 teaspoon of the salt to the water toward the end of the cooking time. Drain thoroughly and transfer to a large bowl. (If you are using canned black-eyed peas, drain and rinse them, transfer them to the bowl and stir in just ½ teaspoon of the salt.)

While the peas are cooking, prepare the oranges: Use a Microplane or other fine grater to remove 1½ tablespoons zest. Use a sharp knife to cut all the peel and any white pith off the oranges, then, working over a bowl, cut between the segments (to make supremes), letting them fall into the bowl as you work. Squeeze the juice from the remaining membranes, reserving 1/3 cup.

To make the dressing, combine the orange zest and reserved juice, chipotle (to taste) and adobo, vinegar and mustard in a food processor or in a blender; pulse to incorporate. With the motor running, gradually add the oil, pureeing to form a smooth dressing. Add the black pepper and the remaining ½ teaspoon of salt; pulse to incorporate, taste and add more salt, as needed. Add the red onion, supremer orange segments, all the dressing and ½ cup of the cilantro to the bowl with the black-eyed peas and toss to coat evenly. Taste, and add more salt, black pepper and/or adobo, as needed. Garnish with more cilantro and serve.

Serves 8 (makes about 8 cups)

Notes: The dressing can be refrigerated for 1 week before making the rest of the dish.

Nutrition | Per serving (using plain rice vinegar): 330 calories, 10 g protein, 33 g carbohydrates, 20 g fat, 3 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 320 mg sodium, 8 g dietary fiber, 7 g sugar

Adapted from "Saladish: A Crunchier, Grainier, Herbier, Heartier, Tastier Way With Vegetables," by Ilene Rosen (Artisan, 2018).