Authentic Greek cuisine the star at Itasca's new Naxos

In the back corner of a strip mall on Irving Park and Rohlwing roads in Itasca, nestled between a gas station and an industrial park, there's a little piece of Greece that's drawing attention - especially from hungry visitors. Naxos A Greek Island Restaurant opened its doors last November offering a wide variety of authentic Greek cuisine for everyone, including those who still have trouble pronouncing spanakopita, like me.

On the Saturday night we visited, the white-walled, wood-floored dining room adorned with photos of picturesque Greece and touches of bright blue was already packed. We were asked if we had a reservation when we walked in, which we did not. But fortunately tables in the bar area were open, so that's where we were invited to establish our own Greek dining island. We figured that if a restaurant is willing to offer seating in the bar area, the food service shouldn't be much different than it is in the dining room. However, our seating location may have contributed to a few service hiccups throughout our experience.

To start, we were asked about ordering drinks before we had taken our coats off. We asked for a couple of minutes to get settled. But as we began poring over Naxos' menu, our server again inquired about drinks. Nobody likes to feel rushed, and we needed a little more time to decide. For me, my first-ever Mythos beer direct from Greece was light, crisp and hit the spot. Also on offer are several mixed drinks and wines, including a glass of pinot noir that quickly arrived at our table.

When in an authentic Greek restaurant, the flaming saganaki appetizer is a must. No other dining experience is like receiving a tower of flame dancing on top of a metal plate holding a thick layer of Greek cheese as your server shouts “Opaa!” The saganaki tasted great, with a thin and crispy flambéed top layer over gooey cheese underneath, but the way it arrived at our table was a bit peculiar.

The person who brought our appetizer wasn't dressed like other waitstaff in white shirts and ties. We were greeted by a gentleman in a green sweatshirt who looked a bit uncertain about delivering the dish, which is unsettling when he's about to serve you a plate that's on fire.

Other appetizers on the hot menu include fried or grilled calamari, spinach cheese pie, mini chicken kebabs and pan-fried smelts for fish lovers. Cold appetizers feature Greek favorites such as taramasalata (a blend of cod roe, potatoes, onions and extra-virgin olive oil), tzatziki (a creamy yogurt cucumber garlic spread), tirokafteri (feta cheese blended with spicy peppers) and a combo sampler featuring all three.

For our entree, we took advantage of the create-a-combo menu where we could each pick two or more items. For diners not familiar with Greek cuisine, this is a great way to try several dishes.

My dining partner and I ordered two separate combo items and shared everything. We opted for the mousaka (spelled with one s on this menu), which is a Greek-style, lasagna-type dish baked with layers of cheese, eggplant, ground beef or lamb and a creamy béchamel sauce.

We also ordered spanakopita (layers of spinach and feta baked in a flaky phyllo dough), keftedes (beef and lamb meatballs in a special tomato sauce) and briam (a plate of mixed vegetables baked in extra-virgin olive oil). The briam is not on the combo menu but was offered as an alternative because the stuffed peppers and stuffed tomatoes were not available that night. Everything tasted good, especially the creamy layers of mousaka.

Beyond the combo platters, Naxos features a full grill and seafood menu that includes Greek sea bass, broiled salmon, chicken and steak kebabs, lamb chops and even a full rack of lamb.

Unfortunately, we had to wait a bit long for our entrees, even after our first server stopped by to say they would be out shortly. When our entrees finally arrived, a dining-out pet peeve of mine occurred: We were served our meal with no place settings. One problem might have been that our waitress was doing double-duty as the bartender. At one point we had to wave to get her attention.

Great food and great service go hand-in-hand when considering your overall experience at a new restaurant. While Naxos scores many points with its authentic Greek cuisine, service needs some improvement. There's a chance that our experience was unusual and we happened to visit on a stressful staffing night. I'm hopeful that with time, the focus on service matches the emphasis on food for an overall great experience for future visitors.

Naxos A Greek Island Restaurant

933 W. Irving Park Road, Itasca, (847) 250-5410, naxoschicago.com/

<b>Cuisine:</b> Greek

<b>Setting:</b> Nautical-inspired upscale yet casual

<b>Entrees:</b> $10.95-$48.95

<b>Hours:</b> 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily

<i> Restaurant reviews are based on one anonymous visit. The Daily Herald does not publish reviews of restaurants it cannot recommend.</i>