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Sesame on the ziti, and we couldn't be happier

There's something to be learned from even the simplest recipes, and this bowl proves the point.

Radicchio's bitter edge mellows once this vivid chicory spends seconds in a hot pan. That same pan, graced with a little olive oil, can then immediately coax firm grape tomatoes into almost-bursting beauties. Ziti tends to get baked into cheesy casseroles, and therefore I don't use it much. But a good dried brand of the pasta yields tender noodles seemingly made for spearing with a fork - especially when a small pillow of mozzarella comes along.

Toss those with more olive oil, the crunch of slender chives and a helping of nutty sesame seeds - the kind you can buy already roasted, on the Asian ingredients aisle - and the dish is done. I have to say, the sesame seeds bring the components together in an unexpected way.

While it's warm and filling and cheerful to behold, it can serve as a terrific pasta salad for lunch the next day.

Mozzarella and Radicchio Ziti

If the mini mozzarella balls you find are on the large side, just cut them into quarters before using.

Kosher salt

5 ounces dried ziti

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

½ medium head or 1 small head radicchio

Freshly ground black pepper

Handful grape tomatoes

Mini mozzarella balls (bocconcini) from one 8-ounce container

1 to 2 tablespoons roasted/toasted sesame seeds

Fresh chives, for garnish

Bring a pot of water to a boil over medium-high heat. Add a couple of generous pinches of salt, then the pasta. Cook according to the package directions (al dente).

Meanwhile, heat a tablespoon of the oil in a large nonstick skillet or saute pan over medium heat. Cut out/discard the core of the radicchio, then cut the rest into bite-size chunks. Once the oil shimmers, add the radicchio and cook, undisturbed, for about 45 seconds, then season lightly with pepper. Transfer to a plate.

Return the skillet to medium heat; add the tomatoes and cook for 5 minutes, or until well heated through. Season lightly with salt and pepper. Return the radicchio to the pan, along with the mozzarella, and turn off the heat.

Drain the pasta well, then add to the pan along with the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil. Add the sesame seeds (to taste), toss gently to distribute evenly. Divide between wide, shallow bowls.

Cut the chives into 1-inch lengths, using them to garnish each portion. Finish with an extra grind of pepper. Serve with pan-roasted broccolini.

Serves 2 to 3

Nutrition | Per serving (based on 3): 510 calories, 21 g protein, 39 g carbohydrates, 29 g fat, 10 g saturated fat, 55 mg cholesterol, 230 mg sodium, 3 g dietary fiber, 3 g sugar

Adapted from “Supper Love: Comfort Bowls for Quick and Nourishing Suppers,” by David Bez (Quadrille, 2017).

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