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Biryani Stuffed Pumpkins

For the spiced pistachio mix

6 tablespoons unsalted butter

3 medium yellow onions, finely chopped

4 cloves garlic, crushed

½ cup peeled, finely chopped fresh ginger root

1 green chile (such as jalapeño or serrano pepper), stemmed, seeded and finely chopped

½ cup shelled, unsalted pistachios, coarsely chopped

½ cup dried cherries or dried cranberries, coarsely chopped

2 bay leaves

3 small cinnamon sticks

¾ teaspoon chili powder

1 teaspoon ground cardamom

½ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

1 teaspoon ground cloves

2 teaspoons garam masala

2 teaspoons salt

For the pumpkins

Four 2¼-pound pumpkins or other round winter squash of your choice (preferably kabocha squash; see note)

Large pinch saffron threads

¼ cup warm water

¾ cup whole-milk Greek yogurt (may substitute low-fat or nonfat)

2¼ cups uncooked white basmati rice

6 tablespoons unsalted butter

For the spiced pistachio mix: Melt the butter in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and translucent, 10 minutes. Add the garlic and ginger; cook until very fragrant and soft, 2 minutes. Stir in the green chile, pistachios, dried cherries or cranberries, bay leaves, cinnamon sticks, chili powder, cardamom, nutmeg, cloves, garam masala and salt; turn off the heat.

For the pumpkins: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Use a large, sharp knife to cut off the tops of the pumpkins; hang on to them, because they will serve as lids. Scrape out and discard the seeds (or reserve them for another use), then arrange the pumpkins, cut sides up, on a large baking sheet. Spoon the spiced pistachio mixture into the pumpkins. Put the lids back on and roast until a skewer easily pierces the flesh, about 1 hour. Let cool slightly.

While the pumpkins are roasting, stir together the saffron and water in a small bowl, to steep.

Scoop the spiced pistachio filling and most of the pumpkin flesh (leaving at least a ½-inch wall of flesh around the edges) out into a saucepan. Stir in the yogurt. Fill a medium saucepan three-quarters full of water and bring it to a boil over high heat. Stir in the rice and cook for 5 minutes, then drain in a colander. The rice will not be cooked through.

Divide about one-third of the pistachio-pumpkin filling among the pumpkins, followed by one-third of the rice. Repeat twice more, layering the filling and the rice in each pumpkin until full, finishing with a layer of rice. Top the rice with knobs of the butter and drizzle with the saffron water. Place the lids back on the pumpkins; roast until the rice is tender and the filling is hot and very fragrant, 45 minutes to 1 hour. Serve warm or at room temperature. (Note that the bay leaves and cinnamon sticks will be in the filling and can be picked out as it is served, if you like.)

Notes: Small kabocha squash gave us the best results in testing, but you can use other varieties (or even a combination) for visual appeal. The pumpkins can be initially baked with the spiced pistachios and refrigerated for up to 3 days. In both cases, bring to room temperature before proceeding.

Serves 8

Nutrition | Per serving (using cherries): 620 calories, 11 g protein, 95 g carbohydrates, 25 g fat, 13 g saturated fat, 50 mg cholesterol, 630 mg sodium, 8 g dietary fiber, 18 g sugar

Adapted from "The Vegetable: Recipes That Celebrate Nature," by Caroline Griffiths and Vicki Valsamis (Smith Street Books, 2017).

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