Egg foo yong gets a revival

The name sounds slightly inauthentic, and harks back to the days when Americans didn't know from mapo tofu or bao buns. But egg foo yong is a most approachable, Cantonese-style dish with a tradition of its own: an eggy pancake with a kitchen-sink helping of tender and crisp vegetables, pork, shrimp, even water chestnuts and bean sprouts.

Saveur declared its comeback a few years ago, so you can feel good about giving this version a try. It is stripped to basics, and meatless. If the Asian greens called choy sum — a green-stemmed member of the brassicas that I can get behind — are at your disposal, chop them up and saute them with onion before the eggs get poured in. Or use peeled broccoli stems instead. It will taste just as good.

Egg Foo Yong With Greens and Onion