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Because you're always looking for another way to cook salmon

I knew that roasting tomatillos concentrates their flavor and softens their skins, but I didn't realize that small ones are sweeter than larger ones and that the green fruit pairs so nicely with salmon.

My newfound knowledge comes courtesy of Marcela Valladolid's new cookbook, “Casa Marcela.” (FYI: Washington chefs José Andrés and Pati Jinich both provided blurbs for the book.) Valladolid's face, which appears a celebrity-worthy number of times among recipe pages, will be familiar to viewers of “The Kitchen” on Food Network, where she is one of the co-hosts who always seem to be talking over one another at elevated volumes.

The Tijuana-born chef reminds us, too, that slightly undercooked salmon is what we're after. To help you achieve that goal, start with a simply seasoned two-pound, center-cut piece and allow it to spend no more than 20 minutes in a 375-degree oven. It's a nice match with a bit of citrus, those slices of tomatillo and charred edges of red onion. You'll see.

Roasted Tomatillo Salmon

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