Irresistible Wings

This recipe began as an experiment, emptying the last bits from jars and bottles languishing in the refrigerator, and ended a family favorite. Marinating these wings plumps the meat and cloaks every nook and cranny with a rich, indulgent, complex, sweet and spicy glaze. Choose all drumettes, the part of the chicken wing that resembles the drumstick, or a combination of flats and drumettes.

It is possible to double or triple the recipe, but take care not to crowd the baking sheet when roasting. Lining the baking sheet with foil is no joke. The mess is real.

1/3 cup ketchup

1/3 cup hoisin sauce

¼ cup low-sodium tamari or soy sauce

¼ cup light brown sugar

2 tablespoons gochujang (Korean pepper paste)

2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

2 tablespoons black bean chili sauce (see note)

2 tablespoons toasted sesame oil

2 tablespoons unseasoned rice wine vinegar

2 tablespoons sorghum or molasses

3 pounds chicken wings (all drumettes or a combination of drumettes and flats)

Combine the ketchup, hoisin, tamari or soy sauce, brown sugar, gochujang, mustard, black bean chili sauce, sesame oil, vinegar and sorghum or molasses in a 1-gallon zip-top bag. Add the chicken and seal, pressing out as much air as possible. Massage to distribute the marinade ingredients and coat the wings (through the bag). Refrigerate for at least 4 hours and at most 8 hours.

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Line a rimmed baking sheet with two layers of aluminum foil.

Arrange the wings in a single layer on the baking sheet; discard any leftover marinade. Roast for 20 minutes, then use tongs to turn the wings over; roast for another 20 minutes. They will be sticky and caramelized and irresistible.

Note: Black bean chili sauce is available at some Whole Foods Markets and Safeway stores, as well as at Asian markets.

Serve warm.

Serves 6

From columnist and cookbook author Cathy Barrow.