Naperville's Craftsman not just another Two Brothers' brew pub

What began with a couple of siblings brewing beer 20 years ago has become a growing restaurant enterprise with its newest and most upscale dining experience yet in downtown Naperville.

Two Brothers Artisan Brewing, owned by Jason and Jim Ebel, operates Two Brothers Tap House brewery and brewpub in Warrenville, Two Brothers Roundhouse brewpub and tavern in Aurora and a tap house and brewery in Scottsdale, Ariz.

Now comes The Craftsman by Two Brothers. Launched at the end of September in a three-story building that housed the Wise Boxer Pour House, it combines three businesses in one. The Market Café on the first floor has breakfast items and specialty coffee from Two Brothers Coffee Roasters in the morning and deli fare, charcuterie, wine and Two Brothers beer at lunch and dinner. The Third Floor, a cocktail bar with a separate street entrance, also has beer and wine plus specialty cocktails and small plates served in a cozy lounge and outdoor roof deck.

But it's the second-floor Modern Tavern that draws the attention of serious diners. This farm-to-table restaurant sources most of its ingredients from within 200 miles, including Amish chicken and grass-fed beef. The house butcher ages its steaks.

Patrons who stroll in expecting pub food might raise their eyebrows at the $17 burger, the cheapest entree on the menu. Though the most upscale of the Two Brothers brand, Modern Tavern at the Craftsman falls somewhere in the middle of the spectrum between gastropub and fussy white napery fine dining. Unpretentious, with gray granite tabletops, butcher block flooring, brick walls and an open kitchen, it was jammed with mostly thirty-something diners on the Saturday night I was there.

Our party of four ordered drinks and studied executive chef Tommy Michel's menu, which is expected to change frequently. Several craft beers appear with Two Brothers drafts on the beverage menu, along with a decent selection of wines, though only six available by the glass.

My beer-loving husband was happy with his Twenty-Plus pilsner lager, Two Brothers' newest addition to its year-round lineup.

Our starters, kale and beet salad plus a meat and cheese board, set us on a happy course. The fresh, curly fronds of kale converted those of us who thought we didn't like this vegetable. The sweet/savory blend of beets, blue cheese, apple and avocado vinaigrette helped. Our board came with three cheeses, a selection of artisan meats and two dollops of pate, one of them delicious duck liver.

Kirsten, our 23-year-old server, was enthusiastic, attentive and knowledgeable, telling us, when we asked, that she'd had a week of training, two in her prior position at the Roundhouse. We were dismayed, though, that our entrees came out halfway through our starters. We would have preferred to linger. And a second glass of wine ordered with an entree came halfway through the meal, and then only after reminding the staff.

Beer-braised oxtail ravioli, with candied walnuts, mascarpone, ricotta and truffle cream in a red wine reduction, lived up to expectations with a just-right al dente texture. The member of our party ordering it said he'd come back for that alone. I felt the same about my dry-aged house steak, a rib-eye that night. So tender and savory, it burst with flavor. A wedge of cheesy au gratin potatoes and buttery, lightly charred Brussels sprouts were perfect accompaniments.

Bolognese proved a simple, satisfying dish with house-made fettucine, pecorino cheese, ground beef and pork in a tangy sauce. Pomegranate pan sauce on cured duck breast was a pleasant surprise, not overly sweet as the more common cherry sauce tends to be. A selection of breads in a cute wooden toolbox accompanied our meals.

We split an apple fig tart, heavy on the cinnamon, for dessert. Other options included cheesecake, stout tiramisu and a crème brûlée trio.

For a nightcap, we settled into leather club chairs in the Third Floor cocktail lounge. The line stretching down the sidewalk to get in should have been a tipoff. Service was so slow, a big party behind us left complaining that beers ordered came right away but cocktails never arrived. With 25 labor-intensive concoctions on the menu, it seems the bartenders could not keep up.

I'll try again when I return for that steak that still comes to me in my dreams.

<i>Restaurant reviews are based on one anonymous visit. The Daily Herald does not publish reviews of restaurants it cannot recommend.</i>

The Craftsman by Two Brothers

16 W. Jefferson Ave., Naperville, (630) 615-7100,

twobrothersbrewing.com/restaurants/thecraftsman/

Cuisine: Farm-to-table

Setting: Three-story storefront in busy downtown Naperville

Entrees: $17-$43

Hours: Second-floor Modern Tavern: 5 to 9 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 5 to 10 p.m. Friday, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 5 to 10 p.m. Saturday, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 5 to 9 p.m. Sunday