Roasted Squash With Pumpkin Seed Mole

For the mole

3 dried guajillo chili peppers

2 dried ancho chili peppers (may substitute 2 more guajillos)

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

3 cloves garlic

½ cup chopped yellow or white onion

2 dried bay leaves

1 teaspoon dried oregano

½ teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon sweet paprika

1/8 teaspoon ground cinnamon

4 cups water

½ cup raw, unsalted pumpkin seeds (pepitas)

2 tablespoons raw white sesame seeds

1 teaspoon kosher salt

For the squash

Two 2-pound whole kabocha squashes (may substitute small sugar pumpkins or acorn squashes)

Kosher salt

Sesame seeds, for garnish

Lime wedges. for garnish (optional)

For the mole: Pull the stems from the dried guajillo and ancho chilies and shake out and discard their seeds. Tear the chilies into postage-stamp-size pieces.

Heat the oil in a large, heavy skillet over medium-low heat. Add the chilies, garlic and onion, and toss to coat. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion and garlic are soft and the oil has turned red, about 8 minutes. Stir in the bay leaves, oregano, cumin, paprika and cinnamon. Cook, stirring often, until the spices have melded and become fragrant, 2 minutes. Add the water and increase the heat to medium-high; once the mixture comes to a boil, reduce the heat to medium to maintain a gentle boil. Cook until the sauce base has reduced by half (to about 2 cups), 20 to 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, place a medium skillet over medium-low heat and add the pumpkin seeds. Cook, tossing the seeds frequently so they toast evenly, until they have darkened a few shades and browned here and there, 3 to 4 minutes. (A few will pop and dance in the pan.) Slide them onto a plate; add the sesame seeds to the pan. Toast them, shaking the pan, until they are a dirty blond color, 1 to 2 minutes. Slide them onto the plate with the pumpkin seeds to cool.

Transfer the hot sauce base and cooled sesame and pumpkin seeds to a blender; remove the center knob of the lid (so steam can escape), cover that opening with a paper towel and puree until smooth.

Return the pureed sauce to the pan over medium-low heat; cook until it has thickened, about 5 minutes, and season with the salt. You should have about 2½ cups. (You can use the mole immediately, but it will taste even better after being cooled and refrigerated for a couple of days. Reheat it gently, adding splashes of water to loosen it, as needed.) You may have more mole than you need; it can be refrigerated for up to 1 week or frozen for up to 3 months.

For the squash: Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

Use a sharp, heavy knife to carefully cut the kabochas in half vertically through the stem end. Don't remove the seeds. Lay the halves cut sides down on the baking sheet. Roast until they are tender enough to be pierced with a paring knife or fork, 30 to 40 minutes. The skin may be quite firm, but the flesh should be soft and caramelized in spots.

Once the squashes are cool enough to handle, flip them over and carefully scoop out their seeds and pulp, taking care not to break the flesh. Reserve the seeds for later roasting if desired. Slide a large serving spoon between the skin and flesh of the squash, removing the flesh from each half in two or three large wedges. (If it's easier for you, cut each squash half in half again before removing the flesh.)

Place the wedges from each half into a shallow bowl or dinner plate, season lightly with salt and spoon about ½ cup of the mole across each one. Sprinkle with sesame seeds and serve with lime wedges, if desired. Serve with beans and rice for a complete meal, or as a side dish, with or without corn tortillas.

Serves 4

Nutrition | Per serving: 260 calories, 9 g protein, 25 g carbohydrates, 16 g fat, 3 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 330 mg sodium, 6 g dietary fiber, 8 g sugar

Adapted from "Power Vegetables," by Peter Meehan and the editors of Lucky Peach (Clarkson Potter, 2016).