If a meat alternative is missing protein, add it

From the first time I heard of it, something nagged at me about jackfruit. I'm not talking about the ripe version, those huge specimens that offer up sweet fruit, once you know how to cut them down to size. No, I mean the green jackfruit that's used as a meat substitute because of the way its texture mimics that of pulled pork.

Here's my issue: Vegetarians seek out meat alternatives primarily for protein. That's why veggie burgers, say, are based on beans and nuts. That's why we revere tofu, build recipes around tempeh, investigate seitan.

So I resisted when publicists emailed me about the latest jackfruit products, which have made shelf-stable jackfruit available for those who don't have access to an Asian supermarket, where it has long been sold canned in brine. But the more I kept hearing about these products and seeing recipes that used them, the more I realized: The problem isn't the jackfruit itself, it's the recipes. Or more specifically, what they're missing. Jackfruit enchiladas and jackfruit ramen are fine, I'm sure, but they'd be even better if in addition to jackfruit they included a high-protein ingredient or two.

There's another issue with those newer jackfruit products, to me anyway: They're sold already flavored, in varieties like barbecue or curry, meaning that any cooking I might do with them is limited. Upton's Naturals sells a “naked jackfruit,” but in limited distribution. So I made my way to an H Mart for the Southeast Asian canned variety. (Warning: Make sure to look for the jackfruit sold in brine or water, not syrup.)

Because jackfruit takes so well to intense spices, I went with a Jamaican jerk-style burrito that combines it with black beans. The recipe comes from Vegan Richa, but I streamlined it a bit to make it a little more weeknight-friendly. You start with young, green jackfruit from a can or package, squeeze the liquid from it, shred it and cook it with typical jerk spices (allspice, paprika, cayenne and more), stir in some lime juice and a little sugar and pan-roast it until browned. Then you wrap it in tortillas with black beans that have been spiked with a little orange juice, giving them a Caribbean flair, plus a little mango, pickles, greens and more.

Now you've got a wrap that has both: meaty texture and meaty nutrition.

• Joe Yonan is the Food and Dining editor of The Washington Post and the author of “Eat Your Vegetables: Bold Recipes for the Single Cook.” He writes the Food section's Weeknight Vegetarian column.