Skate Wing With Brown Butter, Garlic and Arugula

2 tablespoons clarified butter or ghee

1 tablespoon olive oil

10 ounces baby arugula

4 cloves garlic, minced

Dash fish sauce, or more as needed

Dash hot sauce, or more as needed (optional)

1 lemon, cut into quarters, plus a few thin strips of lemon peel, for optional garnish (no white pith)

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

14 ounces skinless skate wing fillets

½ cup no-salt-added chicken broth

½ medium tomato, peeled, seeded and finely chopped

3-inch section English (seedless) cucumber, peeled and finely chopped

2 tablespoons capers, rinsed and drained

¼ cup finely chopped flat-leaf parsley

Combine the clarified butter or ghee and the oil in a medium cast-iron skillet over medium heat. Once that mixture starts to sizzle, toss in the arugula and half of the garlic; use tongs to move them around, cooking just long enough so the green leaves wilt. Season lightly with the fish sauce and hot sauce, if using, then add a squeeze or two of lemon juice. Divide the mixture between individual warmed plates, piling it at the center; return the pan to the stove over medium heat.

The next steps will go fast. Add 1 tablespoon of unsalted butter to the pan. While it's melting, invert the skate fillets and fold the ends toward the center, overlapping them a bit, to form a neat, almost rectangular package. Place the fish in the pan folded sides up. Cook for 2 to 4 minutes or until browned on the bottom and mostly opaque. If the visible center is still a bit pink, use a spoon to rapidly baste the fish with the melted butter and juices in the pan. (It may help to tip the pan slightly in order to corral those liquids.) Transfer a fillet to each plate, folded side down, and place it atop the arugula.

Add the remaining tablespoon of unsalted butter to the pan; swirl and cook for a few minutes until just browned and nutty-smelling, then add the broth, tomato, cucumber, capers, parsley and the remaining garlic. Reduce the heat to medium-low; cook just until the cucumber has softened a bit, stirring, then add more fish sauce, and/or hot sauce and squeezes of lemon juice, to your liking.

Spoon or pour the pan sauce over each portion of skate. Serve with pureed potatoes or roasted/smashed fingerlings.

Garnish with the lemon zest, if using. Serve right away.

Makes 2 servings

Nutrition | Per serving: 580 calories, 48 g protein, 11 g carbohydrates, 37 g fat, 17 g saturated fat, 55 mg cholesterol, 580 mg sodium, 4 g dietary fiber, 5 g sugar

Adapted from a recipe at StephenCooks.com