Spring Green Thai Curry Paste

12 green Thai chili peppers (stemmed and seeded), coarsely chopped

12 serrano chili peppers (stemmed and seeded), coarsely chopped as needed

3 medium stalks lemon grass (tough outer layers removed), cut into 1-inch lengths

3 limes, juiced, zest cut into strips with a vegetable peeler (white pith removed)

2 ounces (a chunky 3-inch piece) fresh galangal or ginger root, peeled and coarsely chopped

1 cup packed cilantro leaves and tender stems, coarsely chopped

1 cup packed mint leaves

1 cup packed basil leaves

3 spring onions, trimmed and chopped (white and green parts)

2 bunches green garlic, chopped (may substitute 2 bunches ramps or 2 heads garlic, cloves separated and peeled)

1 tablespoon fish sauce

1½ teaspoons kosher salt

½ teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon freshly ground white pepper

½ cup water

2 teaspoons shrimp paste (optional)

Combine the green Thai and serrano peppers, lemon grass, lime juice and zest, galangal or ginger, cilantro, mint, basil, onions and garlic in a food processor or high-powered blender. Pulse a few times, then add the fish sauce, salt, cumin, white pepper and water. Puree until smooth.

If using, enclose the shrimp paste in a small piece of aluminum foil and heat it in a small, dry skillet over medium-low heat until warmed through; you will smell it when it's ready. Unwrap and add the warmed shrimp paste to the curry paste. Puree until well-combined and smooth.

Pack the curry paste into clean 4-ounce jars or containers. The paste can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 3 days (the color may darken a bit); it can be frozen for up to 3 months.

Notes: Shrimp paste is available at Asian markets and some Latino markets.

For a less spicy paste, omit the Thai chilies and use only serrano peppers. For a spicier version, use both types of chilies and include the seeds. Traditionalists use a mortar and pestle to pound this blend of chilies, herbs and spices into a paste, but a food processor or high-powered blender makes quick work of the entire process.

Makes five 4-ounce jars (2½ cups)

Nutrition | Per ½ cup: 60 calories, 3 g protein, 13 g carbohydrates, 0 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 650 mg sodium, 3 g dietary fiber, 3 g sugar

From Cathy Barrow, the author of "Mrs. Wheelbarrow's Practical Pantry: Recipes and Techniques for Year-Round Preserving" (W.W. Norton, 2014)