Al Chulo brings modern Mexican small plates to West Chicago
This spring West Chicago welcomed Al Chulo, the latest small-plates Mexican restaurant in the growing Altiro group that has successfully operated Altiro Latin Fusion in Geneva since 2013 and, more recently, opened a second location in Chicago.
Miguel Villanueva, partner and co-owner, says the 60-seat Al Chulo offers a menu similar to but not an exact carbon copy of its siblings.
“At Al Chulo we're all about modern Mexican cuisine - the kind of fare you might get from food vendors in Mexico,” Villanueva says. The kitchen favors organic produce and, when possible, locally sourced meat.
Al Chulo loosely translates as slang for “a good looking person.” The space is light and airy; high ceilings reveal exposed duct work and attractive light fixtures. Seating is at banquettes, tables and a small full-service bar. An abstract painting on a rear wall adds visual interest.
While studying the menu, be sure to check out the tequila selection and signature margaritas, including versions prepared with fresh muddled pineapple or grapefruit. The fruit-laced homemade sangria, served in a white-enameled metal cup, is one we would happily order again and again.
The menu is designed so diners can set the pace by picking each course as the meal progresses.
Al arroz verde makes a tasty starter. The shareable dish features creamy corn, rice with green poblano chilies, epazote (a widely used Mexican herb), sour cream and Chihuahua cheese.
Another popular appetizer to consider is salsa and chips. The dipping salsa comes in four iterations from mild to four-alarm spicy.
Ranking as my favorite course was al fundido sauteed garlic shrimp with Chihuahua cheese. Large shrimp rested on four soft tacos and were topped with escabeche (pickled) red onion and drizzled with a cilantro-lime oil - an array of complex flavors and textures that worked well together.
Another recommended dish is the al ranchero sope, a traditional Mexican creation that at first glance brings to mind a thick masa (ground maize) tortilla housing a chipotle black-bean puree, bits of skirt steak, pico de gallo cream cheese and a roasted jalapeño salsa. Each of the three sopes was the size of a small fist and was brought to the table in miniature skillets.
Among other available options were tacos filled with beer-battered tilapia, marinated pork tenderloin or pan-seared lemon herb chicken as well as roasted portobello mushrooms, homemade Mexican chorizo and a ceviche of lime-marinated tilapia with red onions, tomatoes and avocado.
Desserts were limited the night of my visit to flan and tres leches cake, both made on the premises.
At Al Chulo, the service is friendly and unfaltering. Families with children and couples and friends enjoying a night out will all feel at home here.
Restaurant reviews are based on one anonymous visit. The Daily Herald does not publish reviews of restaurants it cannot recommend.
Al Chulo
1400 S. Neltnor Blvd., West Chicago, (630) 520-0615,
Cuisine: Contemporary Mexican tapas
Setting: Modern industrial chic
Prices: Soups and salads: $6 to $9; shareable tapas: $6 to $11
Hours: 4 to 10 p.m. Monday; 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday; 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday; 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Sunday
Also: Reservations; full bar