Take an expert's advice on the best window glazes out there

Q. Being a homeowner who still glazes his own windows, I seek your advice. I am not satisfied with the glazing compounds available nowadays in the local hardware stores. Do you have any recommendations for a really good glazing compound that makes the labor worthwhile?

A. The best I can do for you is to quote one of the expert contributors to "This Old House," John Leeke, who has dealt with this subject in depth and who knows a lot more about the subject than I do.

Here is what he wrote:

"There are three types of glazing compound, and each has its place in good window work. Traditional linseed oil-type putties (like Sarco MultiGlaze Type M or Allback Linseed Oil Putty) are hard, 'knife-grade' putties. Modified oil-type glazing compounds (such as Glazol, Perm-E-Lastic and DAP 33, although many window specialists are not fond of the latter) are either semi- or non-hardening. And acrylic glazing compounds can be either hardening (Aqua-Glaze) or elastomeric and flexible (Glaze-Ease 601). The most important thing is to look for a putty that serves your needs and gives long-term performance, but can be easily removed and renewed when it deteriorates. My current standard is the traditional linseed oil type, specifically Sarco Type M, but I sometimes use others for their special characteristics." I hope this helps.

Q. I have two noise issues to bring to your attention.

I installed a Kohler acrylic bathtub a few years ago; the instructions didn't mention putting down a mortar bed, so I didn't. The tub has always made disturbing cracking noises at the end opposite the drain when someone is in the tub. I do have access to the bottom of the tub via a cold air return in an adjoining bedroom. Is there something I could put under the tub to reinforce the bottom and eliminate the cracking noises?

The second issue relates to water pipes in my daughter and son-in-law's almost-100-year-old home. The water pressure was terribly high when they moved in, so I installed a new regulator and an expansion tank, which corrected the high pressure. However, when someone uses water (flushing a toilet, washing hands, etc.) the pipes make a high-pitched "singing" noise for about five seconds. Any ideas?

A. If you can insert rigid XPS insulation of the right thickness to support the bottom of the acrylic tub, this is the best solution. You may have to cut it in strips if the access from the cold air return is limited. You seem experienced enough to figure out how best to do it.

Regarding your daughter's house's "singing" pipes, I wonder why you installed an expansion tank. Assuming that she gets city water, a regulator was enough to reduce the high pressure, unless you needed the expansion tank because of problems with the hot water tank pressure relief valve releasing steam. Try isolating the expansion tank and see if this quiets the "singing."

Q. We have a condominium in the city with a really tight parking spot in a garage. Can you suggest a way to add material to the concrete walls (what and how and where to find it) that would protect us from scraping and dinging our car when we pull out? It would be better to have a thinner material with some cushion to absorb a tap from the bumper and to take up less space.

A. Would you consider the type of quilted, padded blankets movers use to protect furniture? They could be hung on wooden strips fastened to the concrete walls with concrete fasteners or construction adhesive.

Q. I am interested in buying a house that heats the house and water with a combination modulating condensing boiler/hot water tank. I am not familiar with this, but have read that acidity in the water can harm pipes and that you have to use antifreeze in it during the winter.

Please tell me the pros and cons of this system.

A. If the domestic water is acidic, a water specialist should be asked to take care of this before the acidity eats up the pipes.

But the acidity in the water has nothing to do with the heating system, as the water in the boiler and water tank used as a heater is in the form of a closed loop; the acidity is long gone.

The only reason to have antifreeze in a heating system is if the pipes run through a cold space subject to freezing, or if the house is left unheated while the occupants winter in a warmer climate.

Q. The next-door neighbors in my apartment building are very noisy. Banging, running, yelling, etc. - it goes on all the time. The walls are very thin and the apartment manager wants to soundproof. Do you have any suggestions?

A. Soundproofing under the circumstances you describe will require some major changes. I hope that your apartment manager will be willing to carry them out.

The best approach is to retain the services of an acoustical engineer. He or she can visit your apartment and draw the best plan suited to the existing conditions. But if this is not in the picture, here are a few suggestions.

The best method to soundproof is to tackle the task from the originating side: your neighbors'. And unfortunately, the simplest method to soundproof a wall - installing new drywall onto resilient channels - only works on the offending side. This might not be an option in your case.

For sound isolation, there should either be a double wall separation between the two apartments, or the introduction of mass to absorb the noise.

For mass, you can apply QuietRock over the existing common wall finish after removing all trim. Caulk all joints with walls, ceiling and floor with acoustical caulking compound. Try to see if it solves the noise problem before completing the job.

If it does not satisfy your need for privacy, even though it is quite pricey, you may want to consider another layer of QuietRock, caulking all the joints as above. Finish the job by reapplying the trim. Finally, prime and paint the wall.

You'll need an electrician to alter any receptacles or switches to the new surface after spraying foam behind the boxes to aid in soundproofing. Or a new wall can be built on your side as follows: Fasten two layers of sound-deadening cellulosic board to the common wall after removing the trim. Apply acoustical caulking compound on the entire perimeter of the common wall. Set a 1/2-inch thick, 4-inch wide cork strip on the floor, the adjacent walls and the ceiling. The cork strips can be set against the sound-deadening wall. Do not use nails or screws; instead, use acoustical caulking compound to hold the cork in place until the new partition is built.

Build a 2-inch by 4-inch partition, 16-inch on center. Fill the spaces between the studs with acoustical Roxul sound-deadening insulation. Screw on new drywall and finish it as you choose.

An electrician should alter all wiring before the sound-deadening boards are applied, and fit it to the new wall.

Helpful feedback from an Illinois reader: "We read your column in the Daily Herald on Sunday, Oct. 18, about the woman who had her driveway seal coated, only to have the postal carrier walk through it and put footprints on her cement porch. Boy, we've been through that. My husband does seal coat, and he uses a product from the Brewer Co. in Bensenville, Illinois. It is called 'Oil Flo.'

"It comes in a 12 oz. bottle or a one-gallon size - it takes the seal coat right off. It is also good for seal coat spots on clothing, garage doors and if you happen to get it on your hands. My husband asked me to send you this email, and tell you about the product as perhaps you can pass it along to your reader."

A. Thank you; this is very helpful. I hope that the reader with the seal coat problem sees this.

• Henri de Marne was a remodeling contractor in Washington, D.C., for many years, and is now a consultant. His book, "About the House," is available at www.upperaccess.com. His website is www.henridemarne.com. Email questions to henridemarne@gmavt.net, or mail First Aid for the Ailing House, Universal Uclick, 1130 Walnut St., Kansas City, MO 64106.

© 2015, United Feature Syndicate Inc.