SugarToad's new chef keeps upscale eatery on the right track

Because overfishing has diminished the supply, sugar toad, an Atlantic puffer fish, is no longer on the menu at SugarToad restaurant.

But there are plenty more options on the American-classics-focused menu of this fine-dining establishment on the north end of Naperville tucked in the Hotel Arista. The contemporary space, decorated minimally in sleek grays and taupes, accommodates about 50; a small seasonal outdoor sidewalk area accommodates a few more.

A recent dinner there, my first visit in six years, confirmed that the kitchen remains on the right track. The menu changes seasonally, with the most recent update bearing the stamp of SugarToad's new chef, Jeff Potter, who came aboard in early August, succeeding Keith Willis.

When ordering drinks, know that a number of international wines are available by the glass. But only three are priced in the single digits; the rest quickly escalate to the midteens. If cocktails are more appealing, SugarToad offers an extensive list of bourbons, tequilas, vodkas, mezcals and the like. As for craft beers, Warrenville's Two Brothers and Chicago's Goose Island options top the Midwest list. Choose from 29 varieties of beer and five “big beers,” which start at $24.

Our meal began with a shared seasonal spring salad featuring strawberries, candied walnuts and thinly sliced jicama mixed with baby arugula dressed in a mango vinaigrette. An alert server immediately whisked away our plates for a quick touch up when she noticed the jicama was missing in action.

Bread service featured triangles of fresh pita accompanied by a luscious sauce of olive oil, feta cheese and kalamata olives.

Anyone with a fondness for duck will enjoy SugarToad's Peking duck breast entree. The substantial, well-made dish showcased rosy pink slices of duck breast plated with a superb crispy duck confit risotto cake, a side of seasoned kale, a generous sprinkling of fresh blueberries and balsamic glaze.

The pork tasting main course, my dining partner's selection, offered some serious, tasty eating. The lineup on this dish included a sizable cut of farm-raised tenderloin, perfectly seasoned pork confit and succulent pork belly. Crispy shoestring potatoes and sweet pea puree served as accompaniments.

All told, there were 10 entrees available on our visit, from pappardelle with rapini, grape tomatoes, arugula pesto and Parmigiano-Reggiano to barrel-cut filet mignon with turnip puree, onions and spinach, ranging in price from $20 to $44.

For dessert, I recommend the chocolate chip brownie if it's on the menu. It's a shareable confection that comes with cream cheese frosting, raspberry coulis, and a scoop of densely creamy and totally delectable mascarpone ice cream.

Among other dessert possibilities on our visit were a peaches and cream bread pudding, creme brulee and panna cotta.

SugarToad, accessed via the hotel's lobby, adjoins a sleek full-service bar known as Zorba's, which also offers noshes such as beef and lamb sliders, tempura vegetables and artisan cheeses.

SugarToad's interior configuration may be altered in future months, depending on the direction remodeling plans take. But, for now, know that you can still find inventive breakfast, lunch and dinner choices in an upscale setting.

• Restaurant reviews are based on one anonymous visit. The Daily Herald does not publish reviews of restaurants it cannot recommend.

SugarToad

2139 CityGate Lane, Naperville, (630) 778-8623, <a href="http://www.sugartoad.com">www.sugartoad.com</a>

<b>Cuisine:</b> American

<b>Setting:</b> Casual elegant

<b>Prices:</b> Dinner appetizers: $13-$18; entrees: $20-$40

<b>Hours:</b> 6:30 to 10:30 a.m., 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., 5:30 to 10 p.m. Monday through Friday; 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 5:30 to 10:30 p.m. Saturday; 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 5:30 to 9 p.m. Sunday