New Sanguche introduces full-flavored Peruvian sandwiches to Naperville

Sanguche, a common Spanish word used in Peru for “sandwich,” is both the name of a recent addition to the ethnic dining scene in Naperville and a reference to the hot mainstay on its short, unique menu.

Cesar Chang, a native of Lima and chef-owner of the family-run restaurant, is a man with a mission: namely, to familiarize customers with the tasty food of his South American homeland.

He does so via seven made-to-order full-flavored sandwiches, variously featuring pork, chicken and beef. There's also a quinoa-based vegetarian burger. And at $7 to $9, these sensational sandwiches are a steal given the high quality of ingredients and finesse in presentation.

Chang studied at Le Cordon Bleu Peru before coming to the United States. And he spent 16 years honing his culinary skills at different kitchens before opening his own place in June.

The restaurant itself is low-key and casual, with seating available for fewer than 50. The decor is spare and bright. Customers order at a counter, and while waiting for their order to arrive they can take advantage of free Wi-Fi.

During a recent visit to Sanguche, a dining partner and I went halvsies on two substantial sandwiches.

The Lomo Saltado brought together an appealing mix of flavors from cultures (Incan, Spanish, African and Chinese) that have influenced Peru over the centuries. Served on a toasted French roll, this delicious sandwich featured tender strips of sirloin sauteed in garlic, vinegar and soy sauce, paired with grilled onions, red bell peppers and tomatoes.

Equally delectable was Adobo de Cerdo, a popular slow-cooked pork shoulder sandwich from Arequipa in southern Peru. The meat was stewed in garlic, cumin, oregano and ajf panca (red pepper), and it was seated in a toasted ciabatta roll with fresh lettuce and tomatoes.

For a change of pace, try a side order of yucca fries. This crispier, creamier cousin to our ubiquitous french-fried potatoes hit the spot. They went well with Huancaina, a creamy, garlicky dipping sauce.

Another popular sandwich, Ajf de Gallina, contains shredded chicken in a creamy yellow pepper, peanut and basil sauce. It's served on a French roll with slices of sweet potato and hard-boiled egg.

On a future visit I plan to try the Chicharron: a sandwich starring pork butt braised and then fired in its own juices and plated in a ciabatta roll with sliced sweet potato, salsa criolla relish (with an onion, red bell pepper, tomato, vinegar and oil base) and fresh parsley mayonnaise.

Sanguche sells no alcoholic beverages but has a selection of soft drinks including Inca Cola, a Peruvian soda known for its sweetness and fruity flavor that somewhat resembles its main ingredient, lemon verbena.

The dessert item we tried was a tender, homemade dulce de leche-filled sugar cookie with a tendency to crumble unless handled carefully.

Reservations aren't taken, and there's plenty of free parking in a lot fronting the restaurant.

• Restaurant reviews are based on one anonymous visit. The Daily Herald does not publish reviews of restaurants it cannot recommend.

Sanguche

535 Fairway Drive, Naperville (331) 701-7175, <a href="http://peruviansanguche.com">peruviansanguche.com</a>

<b>Cuisine:</b> Peruvian

<b>Setting:</b> Unassuming storefront

<b>Prices:</b> Sandwiches $7-$9

<b>Hours:</b> 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday; 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Sunday; closed Monday