Several options exist to improve slippery ramp walkway

Q. I have a handicap-accessible ramp in the front of my house that is very slippery when it is wet or when it snows. I've tried the stick-on tiles for traction, but none of them last very long. Is there anything I can use that will work and last longer than one season?

A. What is your ramp made of? Is it pressure-treated wood or one of the synthetic wood substitute products, mostly made of recycled plastic and wood fibers?

Painting pressure-treated wood is seldom successful for very long, but synthetic substitutes may be painted.

If you choose this route, the ramp material will need to be thoroughly cleaned to remove any pollutants and rinsed well. Next you will need to sand it lightly with a fine sandpaper, and rinse it well again.

When dry, apply a primer that will stick to plastic, such as Zinsser's B-I-N or Bulls Eye 1-2-3.

Top the primer off with a high-quality latex paint into which an antiskid sand has been added. It will need to be stirred with every brush loading as it tends to settle fast. You can buy this type of sand in paint stores.

You can also buy ready-made anti-slip paint, such as those sold by Chemsol (www.chemsol.com).

This should help with a wet ramp, but it will not help with one that is snow-covered. The snow will have to be removed to bare wood with a snow-melting product.

Another option, if it is not what you are referring to when you mention stick-on tiles, is fiberglass or metal screw-on strips, but they are quite expensive. You can find some examples on the following websites: www.kofflersales.com, www.handiramp.com.

Q. Our interior fireplace bricks were soaked because of a flashing problem, which has been resolved. Now that the bricks have dried, there is a deposit - probably calcium - left on them. How can I remove this deposit?

A. The deposits are called efflorescence, the salts in all masonry products, which were absorbed by water and left stranded on the bricks' surface when the water evaporated.

These deposits can easily be removed by brushing them off with a stiff-bristle brush. If this does not completely remove the deposits, repeat the process with the brush dampened.

Q. About 10 years ago, we remodeled our bathroom and put in an attractive, molded, marble-like countertop and bowl. They were manufactured by Northwest Marble Products of Bensenville. There was a label instructing users not to use very hot water because it could damage the sink; we forgot about it. After a couple of years, a series of small cut marks appeared around the drain. We consulted our contractor and he checked with the company - it was hot water damage. Nothing would remedy the cuts, according to the company.

It seems to me fine sanding and a sealer could remedy the problem. Have you encountered anything like this? What would you suggest?

A. No, I haven't heard of this problem before. Since you have been told that there is nothing you can do to repair the damage, you may have little to lose trying your experiment. If it makes things worse, the next step may be to replace the top and sink.

Q. About five years ago, I had asphalt laid over my messy concrete driveway. Late last summer, when it was still fairly warm, my nephew sealed my driveway with Henry Driveway Asphalt Resurfacer that was guaranteed for seven years, which he had purchased at Sears.

After the winter, I started finding black flakes coming off all over the driveway, which is about 70 feet long. All of the coating came off the apron between the sidewalk and the street, which was always original asphalt.

We power-washed the driveway days before sealing it. Did you ever hear of such a thing?

A. You were wise to wait five years before attempting to seal the driveway. The oils in the asphalt need to dry completely to avoid later problems if a driveway is sealed too soon.

Henry Driveway Asphalt Resurfacer is a coal tar pitch emulsion - the old standby - which must be applied in very thin layers and not any more often than every three to five years until some wear is evident in order to avoid what are known as "shatter cracks" if the emulsion becomes too thick.

Considering that you power-washed the driveway before applying the coating, the problem is not likely to have been caused by a dirty surface.

The instructions recommend application on a damp surface with a squeegee. Did your nephew dampen the driveway prior to applying the resurfacer, or did he apply it too thickly? These are the only reasons I can think of for its failure.

It sounds as if the failing coating needs to be completely removed, which may take time, and be reapplied as recommended.

Q. I would like to polish my marble floor. Could you tell me the best way to clean and polish it?

A. You can clean and polish your marble floor with Goddard's Granite and Marble Furniture Polish. You may want to follow the application of this polish with BulletProof sealant from Dupont/3M, which is recommended by some in the marble industry.

Q. We have been obtaining estimates on the replacement of an asphalt porch roof covering two entrances of a duplex. It is relatively flat without a pitch.

There is a difference of opinion of whether to replace the roof with rubber or asphalt. Any suggestions or opinions you can give us on the various materials would be greatly appreciated.

A. What is the existing asphalt roof covering? Shingles? That is not appropriate for a flat roof. If it is roll roofing, it has a short life, and it can be difficult to repair.

A synthetic rubber membrane is the best option by far, even though it's more costly.

Q. I have a question regarding our shower enclosure. One year ago, we had our main bath redone, including a new tub and shower surround (fiberglass, regrettably). The shower fits into an alcove in one corner of the room. This alcove has a regular ceiling (8 feet high made of plaster) and a drop-down wall that divides the shower from the rest of the room.

The wall extends from the ceiling down to a level that matches the top of the shower surround. This wall is not the bulkhead that holds the plumbing, but it goes along the entry side of the tub. This enclosure keeps moisture inside the shower area so that, when used, moisture is heavy on all surfaces.

Well, the paint on the ceiling is already cracking and coming loose. I think repainting is useless and the problem will persist. So, instead, I found a material called polyboard that I want to glue over the entire ceiling with a cutout for the ceiling light in the center.

The polyboard comes in 8-by-4-foot sections and is about ⅛-inch thick. I think it's primarily plastic, which should be waterproof. My concern is this: If I glue this up and put a plastic trim border around the perimeter, will moisture eventually cause mold, mildew or rot between the polyboard and the original ceiling?

A. Your concern is valid, and I can't help with an answer to it.

My suggestion is to remove the bulkhead that is causing the problem.

Remove all loose paint on the ceiling and repaint with Zinsser's Perma-White, a mildew-resistant paint.

Q. In a recent article, a Realtor said companies in the Chicago area do small mud-jacking jobs with good results. We live in the same area. My daughter and son-in-law had their sinking sidewalk mud-jacked. The first year or so it was OK. Since then, it sinks a little more each year. It was not the permanent fix they were promised. That company does not guarantee the work.

A. It sounds as if the ground under the sidewalk has not fully settled yet. It may be best to wait until all settlement is finished and mud-jack again.

An alternative is to remove the sidewalk and mechanically tamp the soil. This must be done carefully if the sidewalk is close to the foundation so as not to put too much pressure on the wall, as that may crack it.

Q. My daughter, who lives in Vermont, is experiencing a strong ammonia odor in her garage's back outside wall. The garage is under the home next to the basement. There is no sign of mold or water. The drywall was spray-foamed with insulation last year. The problem is extreme after a heavy rainfall. Do you have any suggestions?

A. I assume the foaming was done in the wall cavities of either the common wall between the house and the garage or the ceiling of the garage, or both.

I further assume that you do not mean that the foaming was done directly onto the drywall - a most unusual way to do it. But if this were the case, the foam would have to be covered with a fireproof material.

It sounds as if the strong odor is the outgassing of the chemicals in the foam. If so, it should dissipate over time. I can't think of another way to get rid of it except to air out the garage as much as possible.

• Henri de Marne was a remodeling contractor in Washington, D.C., for many years, and is now a consultant. His book, "About the House," is available at www.upperaccess.com. His website is www.henridemarne.com. Email questions to henridemarne@gmavt.net, or mail First Aid for the Ailing House, Universal Uclick, 1130 Walnut St., Kansas City, MO 64106.

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