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Inventive menu sets St. Charles' new Valley Lodge Tavern apart

The recent arrival of Valley Lodge Tavern, with its well-stocked bar and diverse menu of creatively prepared pub favorites, has bolstered the drinking-and-dining scene in St. Charles.

The tavern, housed in the transformed space where McNally's Traditional Irish Pub held court until early April, is owned by Bill and George Stavrou. Since 1997, they also have operated similar establishments, which were originally founded in 1969 by Peter and Taki Adams, in Wilmette and Glenview.

Valley Lodge occupies an open storefront location with banquette and table seating on either side of the bar. There's also a small seasonal patio outside the rear entrance and additional space upstairs for weekend spillover crowds or private parties.

Rustic beams and exposed brick walls add a grace note to the uncluttered decor. A sprinkling of muted and mostly unobtrusive flat-screen TVs hang on the common wall of the bar and dining room.

At last count, the bar was offering 18 different bottled beers and 13 mainstream and craft brews on tap, including Desirous, an easy-to-like white India pale ale produced by Penrose Brewing Co. in neighboring Geneva. In addition, there's a small but respectable wine selection available by the glass or bottle and a handful of specialty cocktails.

Fried calamari, once the calling card at select Italian restaurants, now has a ubiquitous presence on menus, and the quality or preparation occasionally can leave something to be desired. Not so at Valley Lodge, whose version of the popular appetizer ranks among the finest I have encountered. A half order of the lightly battered, expertly fried squid sufficed for me and a fellow diner.

Among other starters were barbecue chicken flatbread, saganaki (Greek cheese prepared in a frying pan) and a nachos plate with corn chips, braised beef, cheddar-garlic sauce, tomatoes, green onions and a cilantro-cabbage slaw.

Early diners will find a bargain: Appetizers on weekdays are half-price between 4 and 6 p.m.

Sandwich choices included such standards as Italian beef, chargrilled chicken breast, sloppy Joes and Reubens.

I recommend the Smithwick's steak sandwich ($13.99). This tasty creation featured an ale-marinated cut of beef tenderloin — juicy and tender at every bite. Red onions, peppers and melted provolone supplied extra flavor, as did an arugula salad in a house dressing. A substantial meal in itself, the sandwich came on a French roll that could barely contain it.

Burgers come in various presentations. A fellow diner proclaimed the Black and Bleu version a standout. Cajun seasonings imparted extra oomph to the half-pound Angus beef patty, which was served on a fresh pretzel bun and worked well with a bleu-cheese-and-fried-onion topping.

Both dishes were plated with house-made chips and a tiny helping of coleslaw.

Note, too, the availability of full-size entrees such as baby back ribs, fish and chips, chicken & kabob and Cajun linguini.

Double carrot cake, a moist treat with cream-cheese frosting, tops the dessert list. A single order easily is plentiful enough for two to share. Diners also will run into other dessert standards, such as chocolate lava cake, bread pudding and Key lime pie.

Valley Tavern, which provides attentive and friendly service, accepts reservations for groups of five or more. Park on the street if you're lucky or at a nearby municipal lot.

Restaurant reviews are based on one anonymous visit. The Daily Herald does not publish reviews of restaurants it cannot recommend.

  Valley Lodge's Smithwick's steak sandwich got a thumbs-up from our reviewer. The sandwich combines ale-marinated beef tenderloin with red onions, peppers, melted provolone and an arugula salad in a house dressing on a French roll. John Starks/jstarks@dailyherald.com
  Valley Lodge Tavern taps 13 mainstream and craft brews, plus offers 18 bottled beers, wine and craft cocktails, too. John Starks/jstarks@dailyherald.com
  Finish your meal with the easily shareable double carrot cake with cream cheese frosting. John Starks/jstarks@dailyherald.com
  Diners enjoy a night out at the new Valley Lodge Tavern in St. Charles. John Starks/jstarks@dailyherald.com
  Valley Lodge Tavern in St. Charles took over the space formerly occupied by McNally's. John Starks/jstarks@dailyherald.com
  Enjoy the last remaining days of summer on Valley Lodge's outdoor patio. John Starks/jstarks@dailyherald.com

Valley Lodge Tavern

109 W. Main St., St. Charles, (630) 513-6300, <a href="http://www.valleylodgetavern.com/pub">valleylodgetavern.com/pub</a>

<b>Cuisine:</b> Pub standards with flair

<b>Setting:</b> Contemporary

<b>Prices:</b> Appetizers $8-$13, entrees $10-$29

<b>Hours:</b> 11 a.m. to midnight Mondays through Thursdays; 11 a.m. to 2 a.m. Fridays and Saturdays; 8 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sundays

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