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Re-create original stucco's look rather than replace it

Q. My husband was a plastering contractor. When we built our front porch, he covered pressure-treated lumber with marine cement to look like a Spanish stucco finish. Unfortunately, he passed away, and the beautiful finish he plastered on the columns is coming down, apparently because of moisture wicking from the concrete floor they rest on.

What can I do to remedy this situation? If I have the columns replastered, the problem will most likely happen again. I've thought about buying fiberglass snap-on columns, but they would have to be custom-made to wrap around the existing columns. They would be expensive and lack the beauty of the original stucco. Any advice you could give me would be appreciated.

A. Under the circumstances, I think that getting a plasterer or experienced mason to replicate what your husband did is the best approach. If the problem with your husband's work is caused by moisture from the concrete floor, pieces of roofing slates cut to size should be set on the concrete to keep the "rising damp" from affecting the stucco.

Q. I was surprised at your recent comment that no mud-jackers are interested in small residential jobs. I'm a Realtor in the Northwest suburbs of Chicago and I have often hired local firms to raise small sections of entry walks or stoops with one or two steps. The prices are very reasonable, and the results have been very good.

I've not had them do something as large as a patio, but they do advertise that they can raise those, too.

A. I am very glad to hear that some mud-jackers are offering this service to residential customers. This has not been my experience over the years in the geographical areas I have worked in the East.

Throughout several decades, I tried to have mud-jacking done to correct settlement of two concrete basement floors and a few walks and stoops in two different regions of the country, but failed to interest anyone. Perhaps times have changed, as it is an easy way to restore sinking concrete to proper levels.

Hopefully, the mud-jacking contractors are more accommodating nowadays. Thank you for sharing your experience; it is very helpful.

Q: Love your column! I'm hoping you can help me with this problem.

I live in a house outside Chicago that has a mostly flat roof. It slopes slightly toward the middle (and around an open atrium), but is flat around the perimeter (the valleys are about 4 feet deep). I just spent a lot of money getting a new TPO roof (the old one was a dark modified bitumen).

The problem is that, through a mutual huge misunderstanding, the roof is white - stark white and you can see the sloped part a mile away. The white is not acceptable to me.

The roofer looked into redoing the sloped portions with a dark-colored TPO, but it's cost-prohibitive for many reasons.

We're now trying to find some kind of "paint" or coating to put on the sloped sections; however, we're not having any luck. No one (so far) seems certain that anything will stick. I'd settle for it sticking for 10 years - the new roof is a 30-year.

A. TPO (thermoplastic polyolefin) is a single-ply roofing system that, according to some sources, can be painted. However, I haven't seen it done, and have no experience to tell you that the paint will stick over time.

If you decide to try painting it, you should thoroughly clean the TPO using a garden hose and a simple detergent. Rinse it well to make sure all detergent is removed.

The recommendation is to prime the thermoplastic polyolefin with a commercially available acrylic (water-based) primer. Apply the primer with a medium-nap paint roller, in parallel rows, making sure that each row significantly overlaps the previous one.

Once the primer has fully dried, apply an acrylic resin emulsion paint in the same fashion. If the white is not fully covered, you may need to apply a second coat.

You should be able to find the primer and the emulsion in well-stocked paint and hardware stores.

A safer alternative is to contact National Coatings (www.nationalcoatings.com) and learn about its AcryShield roof coatings. These coatings are formulated to cover and protect a variety of roof systems in order to avoid replacement.

Because your roof is quite new, the slick surface will have to be lightly sanded, followed by a thorough cleaning to remove all sanding residue. When dry, apply the AcryShield 502, followed by a coating of AcryShield 500. There are several dark color selections.

Sounds a lot easier, but probably pricey.

Q. I remember you answering a question a few years ago about roofing shingles. One or more brands were having quality problems. I need several choices if I do a roof replacement. In 2004, the roofer put Timberline by GAF 30-year-warranty shingles on my house, plus a mesh ridge vent. What do you think of Certainteed shingles and Shinglevent II ridge vents? Do you have other brands you would recommend?

A. Several shingle manufacturers' products have failed way before the stated life expectancy; this has been a longtime problem for the industry.

If it is what you are facing after only 11 years of a 30-year roof, this is not a good recommendation for the shingles you now have on.

I have heard from roofing contractors that they have had a good experience with Certainteed and BP shingles, but for roof installations done in only the last few years. So it's hard to tell if the shingles will live up to their warranty.

As to the ridge vent, Shinglevent II is the one I would always recommend.

Q. About a year ago, you mentioned a recipe for cleaning moss from roofs. I tried it and it worked, but I lost the recipe and I need it again. Would you please send it to me?

A. Over the years, I have suggested several methods to remove moss, lichen, algae and mildew from roof shingles.

A slow, do-it-yourself method is to spray the roof with a solution of equal parts water and fresh Clorox bleach using a regular garden sprayer. It should be done on a windless day at the rate of one gallon per 50 square feet of shingles. To prevent too much dripping, do not overspray. If you have metal gutters, you should run water in them with your garden hose until all dripping has stopped.

In all cases, soak any plantings before spraying, cover them with plastic and rinse again when all dripping from the roof has ended.

Cover your skin and eyes, use old clothes and be aware that walking on a roof is dangerous and not good for the shingles.

It is best to spray from a ladder if your garden sprayer has a strong enough reach. It will take a long time for results to show with this procedure.

Another method is to spray Wet & Forget outdoor cleaner on the shingles, following the directions on the container. Results will also be slow to show. Wet & Forget is environmentally safe.

A third option is to hire roof cleaners for faster results. Some professional roof cleaners spray from the ground with high-pressure hoses.

You can also have zinc strips installed just below the ridge cap to prevent new growth. Although zinc strips will eventually get rid of algae and other unwelcome growth, it will take a long time. It is best to clean the roof first.

Q. We have a toilet at grade level that will not flush - it backs up with liquid and a black gritty material, which very slowly goes down. In the past, we have had similar backup in a shower in the same grade-level bathroom, but I cleared that with the use of a rotary auger.

All of the other toilets in the house flush perfectly, and the showers and sinks (including the two sinks at grade level) have no problem draining. I have opened the septic tank, and there is an 8-inch gap between the opening and the sludge; the tank was last cleaned out in September 2013.

I suspect a clog between the grade-level toilet and the tank, although the last man to clean out the tank talks about leach field failure, which seems unlikely given the fact that the tank is not overflowing and all of the other devices in the house flush and drain properly. Any suggestions?

A. Your analysis of the leach field health appears to be correct. If there is no effluent surfacing and no interference with flushing other toilets or draining other fixtures, the leach field seems OK.

You may either have a partial blockage beyond the affected fixtures, but before their sewer line connects with the main line, or you may have a venting problem.

I suggest you call a licensed plumber and have him or her investigate and clear the problem.

Interesting suggestion from a reader: May I suggest - if you have not already tried it - a "Pumie Scouring Stick" (widely available and very inexpensive) for cleaning water rings in toilets. I have used this with a great deal of success - although I was skeptical at first, thinking it would damage the toilet surface.

A. Oh! The wisdom out there! Thank you for this great tip, which I didn't know about.

• Henri de Marne was a remodeling contractor in Washington, D.C., for many years, and is now a consultant. His book, "About the House," is available at www.upperaccess.com. His website is www.henridemarne.com. Email questions to henridemarne@gmavt.net, or mail First Aid for the Ailing House, Universal Uclick, 1130 Walnut St., Kansas City, MO 64106.

© 2015, United Feature Syndicate Inc.

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